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On the weekend of 12/11-12/13 my dad and I and a friend installed a rolling door on my garage. The garage is a detached 22x30 (interior) building with a 9x16 car door and separate man door. It has its own electric meter and panel, but currently is only wired for 110V power. I'll be wiring up for 220 as my garage build progresses.

Pics of the door installation:















For the heavy lifting



Door in a box



Tine extensions to reach far enough into the garage to do the job



Why no, I'm not compensating for anything...







First: get the old door out. Here we used the forklift to take the weight so we could unhook the springs.



Next, propping up the next higher panel so we could unbolt the one below



Aaaaannnnd it's out



It's tough to get good shots of the tracks installed. This is actually where we spent most of the *time* required... figuring out what in the building we could anchor to securely, drilling clearance and pilot holes for 3/8 x 7" lag screws and turning them in.



The installer or builder had set up a stack of 2x10's on each jamb, but it wasn't clear how well they were anchored to the actual load bearing members of the building. Here we had to cut and install some blocks at the top of one in order to be able to put lags through into the top plate of the wall, which of course is anchored to the roof trusses (we hope).







Per the spec sheet included with the unit, the curtain assembly, here shown elevated for installation, weighs 519 lbs. It's secured to the tracks by three 1/2" bolts per side.



Bolted up... didn't even fall on anyone's head



Skip a couple of steps...

Here it is installed, with the manual operator assembled



AAAAAAANNNNNNNDDDDDD... the finished product:



They'll even let me advertise to myself for FREE!



Wouldn't be finished without extra parts (Wait... what?)




The reason I went to all that trouble and threw down about twice the cash that a sectional garage door would cost is to free up ceiling space for the installation of a FUCKING BRIDGE CRANE, BITCHES.

More to follow on that. I was expecting to have to build the rails from 4" I-beams and beam trolleys, anchored to the roof trusses through the ceiling, with the bridge being a 4" beam with a T-section welded to the top so it could hold 1,000# in the middle of a 20 foot span. This should be a very compact arrangement and let me get my hook height as high as possible under the 10'8" ceiling.

However, the place from which my dad is semi-retired assembles Ingersol Rand trolleys and rails and the owner offered some to my dad for FREE!.
I probably won't be able to keep the hook quite as high with these materials, but the price is right. Even without the free stuff, the crane was going to be MUCH cheaper to build than the door was to buy.

Great pictorial Will and beautiful country around there. Hilly, pine trees, but no snow & green grass? Was that a Wisconsin tag on the Suburban? Shoot, even here in TX the grass is brown now!

A crane in the shop/garage is nice, can't wait the see the install.

Last time I saw that truck there was a 348 engine in the back......have a plan for that now do you?

Virginia... We picked the door up in the Shenandoah Valley and carried it to my place in Northern VA.



The plan has always been to put it into my engineless 308... Sometimes life gets in the way of cars, though.

I'll post pics of the install when I get to it. As I mentioned, my dad's semi-employer is providing some of the materials for free... I need to crawl up into the attic to take measurements for and design the ties that I'll screw to the trusses and from which I'll hang the rails. Since each rail will be attached to each of 14 trusses on both sides, I'll need 56 parts... And I'll probably need different ones for the front and rear, as the front rail will be further from the front wall than the rear rail will be from the rear wall.

ahhhhh....I didn't realize there was an engineless 308 in the picture.

Now hurry up and get that crane done so you can start on the engine install

The crane with *DEFINITELY* make bouncing the powertrain into and out of the 308 MUCH easier.

Yes, there is an engineless 308. It has 4500 miles and started life black. The original paint and body filler has completely crazed and is chunking off. I'm expecting to have it dip stripped and e-coated after welding the new engine mount brackets to the frame, modifying the crossmembers around the powertrain, installing a roll bar and harness bar and modifying the rear suspension so I can fit 18x10 or so wheels in the back...

Are you planning transverse mount or it sounds like maybe longitudinal?

I have 18x10.5 on my car....I moved the lower shock mounts inboard 1.625" by welding on new ears, then clearnaced the a-arms for the new shock position. A 285 tire fits, a 295 will probably fit, a 305 MIGHT fit.....this is without removing the inner wheel well.

So hurry up and finish the crane already!!!!

As Mark said: Hurry up, we are going to need something interesting to keep us going once he gets his monster running!

John

I've been busy, just haven't been posting. I'm in Afghanistan for another 10 months, so once I get the thread caught up, there won't be more progress for a while.

Had to build up some blocks in order to install the 2x4 headers for the garage door shroud:







One header up:



Both headers up:



The shroud support bracket:



Pre shroud installation:



Mid shroud installation:



I still need to drill a few holes, add a few screws and bolt the bottom edge of the shroud to the end of the center bracket and the rails that are welded to the end plates of the door assembly.

Going to tile my basement with 3/4" thick 1018 steel tiles!



Or not... those are the blanks for these:



Which are the beam clamps for use with the forthcoming bridge crane rails



I also *finally* got the roll up door shroud fully secured. I ended up having to take out all the screws I had installed except for the ones at the very ends of the flange, then bolting in the lower ends, then going back to reinstall the screws on the top.

When the shroud is allowed to hang and find its own curve, the flange sags. If you screw it to the wall sagged, then the shroud buckles when you try to draw it in to the diameter of the rails on the door end brackets. If you leave the screws in the middle of the flange out and only attach it with screws in the ends, then when you pull it down to the final diameter, the extra stiffness pulls the sag out of the flange. You can then screw the flange to the wall.

I wish that the instructions had covered that... or at least, you know, existed.

End product:



In other news, I thought I had overkilled the shit out of getting a long drill bit to drill screw holes. I was wrong... it was only just barely long enough:



Because we'd had to put long lag screws through the mounting face for the door and into the underlying structure of the building, I had to use a holesaw to make clearance for the heads of those lags under the mounting flange for the shroud:



Overall it was a giant pain in the ass, so I was really stoked to finally get it completely installed.