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You've been very busy! Nothing is ever easy is it?

That's months of work compressed to a few posts.
That's still plenty left to do, including machining parts for the bridge end fixtures

It looks like months of work. Its going to be really nice having a crane with very nearly full shop access.

How much height under the hook will you have when its all done to you thing?

I saw the plywood but didn't understand the purpose? Was it to reinforce the structure, I kow a lot of stuff around here is just foam board on the outside of the studs?

A) Better insulation... The previous fiberglass batting had collapsed so the upper third of the wall was uninsulated and wasn't R22 when it was installed anyway.

B) Tougher interior surface than drywall

C) Gave me the opportunity to install double duplex boxes every 4 feet and run conduit up through the top plate and into the attic for future wiring needs.


Edit: The ceiling is 10'9" and I'm pretty sure I can get the hook height around 9' with a basic chain hoist.

Just remember that as tough as it is, plywood is not fire resistant like drywall is.

How much height are you going to end up with? (edit - just saw your edit )

I'll look around for some fire resistant stuff to slather all over it.

Actually, if backed by the rigid foam, drywall probably would have been about as tough as the plywood is.

I've been playing with my Fiero... and with nothing but 1" thick wheel adapters, it mounts the 18x9.5 rears from a C5 Corvette with 285/30-18 tires. I have a C5 ZO6 18x10.5 rear to experiment with, but I suspect with just relatively minor mods to the struts, that will be able to fit with maybe a 315/30-18... under stock bodywork.

I've been wondering about moving the Ferrari rear shocks down in between the arms like the front ones... maybe even double up if there's no good place for a single... That'll result in plenty of wheel clearance, right?

Stupid fieros!

You can't put the rear 308 shock down like the fronts because the axles/CV joints are there. If you go behind or in front you generate a torque on the arm you need to deal with that the arm is not designed to handle so it would need some reinforcing. Doubling up as you sugest handles the torque but then you still have nothign on the frame to attach the top to unless maybe you do a custom upper arm so the shocks are right tight to the axle.

Then the wheel will hit the rear sway bar....mine is not installed at the moment. And also the inner wheel wells become a problem. at about the 295 point...maybe a little more will go....maybe......

Nothing insurmountable...

Since the whole thing's structural tubing, I'm not above building a completely new suspension for it. Changing pickup point locations should be relatively easy.

Not sure if I'd try to make new composite wheel house liners or whip up some sheet metal ones. It partly depends on how much room I have between the liner forward of the frame upright and the maximum width of the header tubes.

Anyhting can be done....its just time and money

Take a look at the rear....from memory the wheel wells wrap to the front but to the rear there is frame or trunk you'll run into?