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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Tue May 30, 2017 12:16 pm 
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Wow, that thing is huge. It'll be cool to see a video of the first print!


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PostPosted: Wed May 31, 2017 9:55 pm 
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It is pretty big...in theory it can print 12x12x16 parts, lime Ferrari intake parts :)


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 9:23 am 
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It sort of prints

https://youtu.be/g5xITk6t9yE

The heat plate doesn't seem to stay flat

The z home position seems unstable

80c is about it on the bed

The 2 z strippers got out of wack

cura wrote a program the sent the sent the x to a crash on the far side

The FW seems to ignore the M109 command to heat the extruder but preparing manually seems to work, at least for an sd print

That's day 1...on to day 2 :)


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 11:17 am 
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That's awesome! I had forgotten about the "music" that cartesian printers make. My first printer used a steel square tube frame that amplified the stepper noise and it would sing a song whenever it printed. My main printer now is a delta that really doesn't make the same kind of sound.

80 C sounds about right for the upper temp limit of a 12v heated bed. For ABS, you'll need at least 100 C. I use a 24V heated bed which can go to 110 C without a problem. Most folks nowadays needing high bed temps are using 24V DC or 120V AC for heated bed triggered by an appropriate AC/DC or DC/DC relay. Trouble with heated bed not staying flat -- is it warping from the heat?

The biggest problem with using stepper motors is that there is no positional feedback. This can be an issue with dual Z steppers where they both need to be 100% in sync for the bed to move correctly. If yours got out of whack, one stepper probably skipped some steps and they got out of sync. Check for binding along the axis that may cause skipping. I don't know which control board Folgertech is using, but typically there is a current adjustment on the each stepper driver. Unless they adjusted the current ahead of time, you may need to make some tweaks here. Driving the steppers at too high or too low of current can also cause skipped steps.

It's unusual for any slicer program to generate gcode that causes a head crash. To see if cura spit out some funky gcode, upload it to http://gcode.ws (an online gcode simulator) and see if anything looks really unusual about the output.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 11:30 am 
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I just looked at the Folgertech website and it looks like you have a MKS Gen 1.4 controller. It most likely uses standard Pololu A4988 stepper drivers which have a manual current adjustment. Here's a guide on how to adjust: https://matterhackers.dozuki.com/Guide/ ... Current/37 . You can set the adjustment based on the current rating for the motors, or you can "tune by ear." The optimal power setting is the lowest current where the stepper runs smoothly without skipping steps.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 9:42 am 
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flyngti wrote:
I just looked at the Folgertech website and it looks like you have a MKS Gen 1.4 controller. It most likely uses standard Pololu A4988 stepper drivers which have a manual current adjustment. Here's a guide on how to adjust: https://matterhackers.dozuki.com/Guide/ ... Current/37 . You can set the adjustment based on the current rating for the motors, or you can "tune by ear." The optimal power setting is the lowest current where the stepper runs smoothly without skipping steps.


Those are them. The manual provided the recommended V and a link to a video to set them so I did it first thing at power up so that is set.

I'll need to do something else for the bed heat power...24 or 120 is what I see mentioned on the folgerforum....ill probably try 24 first since it's less stuff to buy/change. I got it to 84 which mostly works.....but I think your right that 100-110 is where it wants to be.

The z thing was alignment and a slight crash....its been fine since I realigned it. There is a single belt mod I may do.

The bed seems more stable now.....but it's not flat....I'll need to do something about it.

The thing I struggled with most is by the 3rd layer the nozzle was buried in the part. I set the flow% all the way down to 5%, tried setting the filimeny dim all the way up to 18mm....no change. I finally figured out the dia compesation was shutting off when the program loads just like the extruder heater so the system is load the program, manually set the heaters and wait for layer 1 to print, then as it goes to layer 2 turn on the filament comp and it makes a nice part. I had a lot of trouble getting it stuck to the bed but painting the hot bed with pvc pipe cement fixed it...it kind of books and makes a rough sticky surface....maybe a better way but this worked pretty well.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 05, 2017 11:56 am 
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Did you go through an extruder calibration? You can use the flowrate adjustment in your slicer for fine tuning, but it's best to start with a good setup of your extruder steps/mm. Are you using Pronterface to connect to the printer? To begin calibration, remove the hotend nozzle and extrude 10mm of filament. Measure the filament to see how much actually came out. Adjust your steps/mm until you get to 10mm. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZGdMc2ebPo&w=560&h=315 . This will get you close, and you can use the extrusion multiplier in the slicer to adjust for different plastics http://wiki.solidoodle.com/flow-rate .

Some other things that work for helping parts adhere to the bed are ABS juice (a slurry of ABS dissolved in acetone), elmer's glue stick and aquanet hair spray.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 05, 2017 4:03 pm 
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I did not, but I think I found the issue....i had the the g code flavor set to a volumetric version, which wiki tells me sets the dia to 1.128 and I confirmed causes it to ignore any dia or flow % settings.....oops.

I think the extruder temp thing is M190 comes first and is heat and wait on the bed, so until the bed is hot the extruder setting is not read/set.....patience is all I probably needed.

I tried glue sticks...worthless. PVC pipe cement works great...its pvc in acetone which melts at a lower temp than abs so at 84 I can get my be to is nice and sticky and the and fusses to it nicely.

We're making good parts now....whem the machine hasn't fallen apart in so way.....


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 06, 2017 9:08 pm 
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I think it's working right now

https://youtu.be/ltYuLbybxks

Time to modify! I ordered a 162x12 120V 750W pad heater and a piece of 1/4" jig plate for a print bed that goes to whatever temp I want and stays flat.

Spinners printed. Plants v zombies characters printing now, nerd gun tomorrow, the the missing velocity stack! Yay!!!!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 3:13 pm 
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mk e wrote:

Time to modify! I ordered a 162x12 120V 750W pad heater and a piece of 1/4" jig plate for a print bed that goes to whatever temp I want and stays flat.


I just about got the new printer bed installed last night....I'll try to finish it up tonight and post some pics.....and yes there was welding!


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