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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2022 2:12 pm 
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MerlinTech wrote:
I am surprised you didn't make your own wire. Twist the core, machine a mold, draw the core through and add a casing. Bam! Plug wire.


Easy Peasy! ;) :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2022 2:33 pm 
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Latest throttle adapter with the highest probability of working is done, so I'll have something to play with this weekend.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2022 11:39 am 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:
This is the only angle at which this works. Note that I have the first modified water manifold here, with the intact coolant lobe. This is the '04-'06 LH2 RWD NorthStar throttle. The lower left bolt hole on the throttle needs to rotate just enough to clear the counterbore for the bolt that holds the plate to the manifold.

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I was able to mess with this orientation... The plate didn't quite work, but I also messed some details up. I updated the model and sent a new drawing to be lasered. I'll get all the holes drilled and test fit that this weekend. Based on how it fit this time, the next one with either work outright or get me to the point at which I can take down the bolt boss on the throttle with a belt sander to create clearance.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 06, 2022 8:16 pm 
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FINALLY got the adapter plate to work with one of the throttles. :-D :Yahoo!: :good: :)

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OMGWTF

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Plug wires and a throttle!

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Plug wire routing

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Magnecor even shrink tubed their logo and CYLINDER NUMBERS on the coil end boots!

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NEXT:

=>Accessory drive bracket:
I have the next rev of that with the laser peeps, but won't be able to mess with it until 2/19. The accessory drive is low priority, because I can move it from borrowed shop space to my dad's house on a battery if I have to.

=>Touch up the oil filter adapter pipe boss:
Since it's a little crooked and not quite deep enough, I probably get ONE revolution of the 3/8" pipe tap to fix it.

=>Positive terminal junction:
I'm going to modify the PS pump mount as I've discussed previously. That will let me integrate the alternator cable with the harness so that the engine only needs to be hooked up at the +12V junction block and ground.

=>Wiring:
==>Snag damaged Fiero engine bay harness & disassemble
==>Build wire list from documentation that Ryan sent
==>Place order with Ballenger or similar for terminals, connectors & wire
==>Build harness!


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2022 7:26 am 
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That thing looks great. So much work involved in making something exactly like you want it. Can't wait to see the post about it running.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2022 11:09 am 
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Nice! you're getting close now!


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2022 11:28 am 
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MerlinTech wrote:
That thing looks great. So much work involved in making something exactly like you want it. Can't wait to see the post about it running.


mk e wrote:
Nice! you're getting close now!


Thanks!
It's been amazing how painful getting the throttle to stay on was, but I should be able to move quickly now... just in time to have to do major work to the house!


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 28, 2022 12:04 pm 
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Knocking things off the to-do list...

Here's the ongoing, but fairly straightforward development of the accessory drive bracket:

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I'm relocating the idler pulley slightly

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And will be popping the tensioner in up here, but not at this angle

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I schwacked the power steering pump bracket from this:

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Down to this:

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And here's how it fits:

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And the engine with these small things on the front:

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I also pulled off the oil filter adapter... again... and re-re-re-re-tapped the oil pressure sender/switch port to make sure it is straight and the correct depth to keep the fitting tight to the adapter. As noted above, I need to figure out a fitting tree to get the oil pressure transducer installed, but that shouldn't be too bad.

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I'd never used a tap guide before, but it worked and with results that surprised me. I guess it's a tool on the market because it works. My dad's tools don't always work, though.

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I turned the tap liiiiiiiterally 1 revolution at a time in between test fits of the reducer elbow fitting w/ Aurora oil pressure sender. I worked it down to the depth I thought was good and thought I'd done a good job. I had been noticing that it seemed to take a lot of angular movement beyond hand tight in order to get the reducer elbow to tighten up. I was putting the tap away in the box I got it from and noticed it was labeled 3/8-18 NPSF. S? S?!? Oh GDMF F@#$% sunnova... :bad:

I snagged the correct NPTF tap, ran it in ONE more revolution and re-installed the fitting. There's exactly ONE thread of the fitting still out of the boss. I had to remove the oil pressure sender in order to run the reducer elbow all the way in, since it was so close that the sender hit a feature on the filter adapter. It tightened up enough that it should seal just fine, and it snug, square and straight, so I'm done with it... especially since doing anything else would require buying a new filter adapter from GM. If I can't get this joint to seal, then I'll think about that. It's good enough to get the engine running and wheels turning.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2022 10:08 am 
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Because I was working on the Jeep, I didn't get anything done on The Mule last weekend, other than pull my '87 Fiero shop manual off the shelf in order to incorporate the Fiero body power distribution into my wire list for 2006 DTS wiring for 2006 Corvette ECM %)

Photos of the filter adapter:

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2022 1:26 pm 
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I drilled & tapped 5x0.8mm holes in the junction block platform. The junction block plastic has counterbores that are obviously intended for socket cap mounting screws, so I need to snag some 5x0.8mm x 10mm socket cap screws. :roll:

I tapped the next rev of the accessory bracket and fit checked it. It looks like this rev is good. My dad and I measured for the belt and he's going to try snagging and fitting this week.

I think I have a couple of pics of the junction block on the platform... but didn't get any of the whole assembly on the front of the engine.


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