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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2025 9:00 am 
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mk e wrote:
MerlinTech wrote:
Nice. I don't think I can do English threads.

My lathe only has the gearing for threads/in, not metric which is usually a problem so this was a nice to actually have what I needed.

Hahahaha, when you said "English thread", I was like "WTF - he has a lathe set up for Whitworth???" :lol: :lol: :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2025 6:00 am 
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My lathe only has the gearing for threads/in, not metric which is usually a problem so this was a nice to actually have what I needed.[/quote]
Hahahaha, when you said "English thread", I was like "WTF - he has a lathe set up for Whitworth???" :lol: :lol: :lol:[/quote]


I thought the same thing. :shock: I can do standard and metric but not Whitworth. :lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2025 3:10 pm 
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I think witworth is still threads/in, they just use a 55deg cutter instead of 60deg? So the switch could have been either and I probably wouldn't have noticed as there was very little thread to fit the thread gauge on. whatever it is, the right nut fits :)

I'm about 90% talked into using a clutch switch instead of brake switch...seems safer with a manual trans. The black button shipped from china, probably 2 weeks before I see it. The silver VW button I can get cheap but to find one with the bezel and wire harness ...$35-40+ shipping so just as cheap to get the kit kit it came with....and I do kind of like the silver button and I just goggled what was stock, I forgotten is was silver with a big black bezel


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2025 6:20 pm 
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mk e wrote:
I think witworth is still threads/in, they just use a 55deg cutter instead of 60deg? So the switch could have been either and I probably wouldn't have noticed as there was very little thread to fit the thread gauge on. whatever it is, the right nut fits :)


Without finding one of my copies of Machinery's HB (just finished moving, but *definitely* not even close to finished organizing and the new shop is a complete disaster at present), I think the only differences between regular ("SAE") fractional threads and Whitworth are the cutter, appropriate compound angle, and the TPIs used for some sizes of fastener. Some lathes might not cut all the Whitworth TPI variants. I don't even know if mine does, or whether my memory is correct above.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2025 8:25 pm 
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n2zon wrote:
Some lathes might not cut all the Whitworth TPI variants. I don't even know if mine does, or whether my memory is correct above.


I don't have all the TPI options, but I had this one :D

Todays I played with the push to start bit. and good that I did as nothing really worked the way I hoped and it became quite jumble of stuff on the bench
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But I think I got it doing what I wanted, there is a video
https://youtu.be/kJJCld4W0H8

Then I printed an adapter for the VW button that I think came out pretty well and I was pleasantly surprised the threads worked with only minor futzing
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I sprayed it satin black, I'll see how that looks tomorrow. The black button is still on the way so I still might go that way but I think this will look closest to original.


Help me get this thing finished! https://gofund.me/39def36c


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2025 10:20 am 
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With the paint I kind of like it..not sure its worth messing with any more trying to make it better.
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I need to decide what to do with the LED too....it needs ground to light so I guess another relay. Its not really bright enough to see in daylight so my thought was wire it to be on with the dash lights but power on is fine too. Chatting with a buddy yesterday he offered to take a look at making a simple no relays controller box for me so I need to write down what I did for him so I'll hold on final wiring this stuff in and see about getting the CAN to steering working and I guess the ECU setup and wired for starter control.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2025 8:35 pm 
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Here is what I built to get

touch or hold - on

touch or hold - off

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This is how I got that working, it was $26 in parts from amazon, but everything was 2 packs...so $13 used plus the button. The output of this will trigger my aux and ignition power relays. I'm planning to let the ECU handle the starter relay so it will crank until it starts or time out at maybe 5 sec for a no-start situation...or I could just connecting a starter relay directly to the button for push and hold to crank.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2025 3:27 pm 
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This is the bit for push and hold for cranking. Note my clutch switch goes to to ground not 12v. The timer lets the ecu boot and fuel pressure come up which is nice, but also effectively locks out the starter once the button is released.

I ordered a 5 pack of 40A relays with connectors for $9, they'll come tomorrow so I can finish up the wiring. And I need to print a little box to hold the relay/timer boards.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2025 9:03 pm 
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Still working on the push to start......but close now

I printed a box that everything mostly fits into (I had to file the sides on a few of the bosses
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I printed 2mm holes, then drilled 0.093" so #4 sheet metal screw that fit through the 3mm holes in the boards nice
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Wired a little neater with a few colors so its easier to tell what's what
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And it seems to work
Touch - on
Tough- off
Hold on at least 1/2 sec (+clutch) it's on and cracking until release
Starter locked out after release so touch or hold off, no crank
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I still need to wire in the power relays so it actually controls the car but that is pretty straightforward so I expect to wrap this up tomorrow.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2025 9:43 pm 
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so it turns out straightforward and quick are not at all the same thing...behold the 80s Italian art
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It is all wired and working though other than the clutch pedal switch and that wire is run and hanging at the switch ready for another day. I kind of forgot I wanted a light on the dash so I need to run 1 more wire for that.

Step 1 was of course unpin the pre-pinned connects and throw out the wires, I am not a fan of splices where they are not absolutely needed.
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And it appears the subwoofer has aged out and there is now a hole in the foam ring supporting the cone....which has me pondering just removing the stereo in the name of I can't hear it over the engine anyway so why not save the weight....need to think about it.
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