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No time to play with phones....I have a V12 to work on

And about that V12..........

I found that the signal I thought was the measured battery Voltage "AN_BatteryVoltageRef [V]" is battery voltage through a voltage divider That means when I was expecting about 12.5V it was reading 2.16 or something like that. The effect is things that have volgate corrections were being corrected wrong. The fuel injectors where spraying WAY too much fuel and more importantly the coils won't spark correctly because the dwell will be way too long and the ignition module will know that and fire the coil prematurely to prevent frying the coil. That's fixed.....but that's the only semi-good news I got today.

There is no compression on the rear blank, zero so I really buggered something when I re-installed the head because it had pretty good compression judging by the way it blew out plug boots or towel I had stuffed in the keep things clean. The front bank was compression but it's showing 125-135 which seems very low for a 10.7 CR engine....I think 180ish is where is should be.

Time to pull the engine and figure out WTF is going on

Tough break Mark, sorry to hear it. We all know how much you wanted to hear that thing fire up in the car.

It was going to have to come out sooner or later to fix the oil leaking from the timing cover....sooner it is I guess. The parts all bolt together now though so it should be relatively quick and painless. I want to make the intake stacks too.

I just pored coolant out the 7-17 muffler .which has me a bit scared about what I'll find in the headers:?

I guess that would explain lowish compression in that bank and the coolant drip that didn't seem to be coming from anywhere near a coolant line.

I kind of understood when the 1-6 muffler had a little fire inside but draining coolant from the muffler is new to me.

Note to self....add short extension hose to the bottom of the oil tank so the oil doesn't drain onto the frame and then the floor.

If she hydraulic'ed then yeah you've probably bent or broken something . I think you need to get her sealed and spinning happily on the starter before adding ignition.

Best of luck
Pete

I'm thinking it will be on the bench this weekend as we see soon enough. Ignition on or off it was only ever spinning on the starter and never made any actual attempt to run so I'm a little confused about what's going on. All I can think is something got lodged under the rear head....but we'll see in a few days.

I also need to see how hard it would be to remove the engine harness from the car. I wasn't really thinking about that when I built it but now that the engine is coming out starting it on a stand or on the dyno might make sense. I need to think about this.

I did take a moment to confirm that the clutch is clutching. I was a little worried but car in gear and parking brake on it's locked then clutch pedal down it spins freely so that's good and the parking brake is also working well....now I just need the engine to.... you know...run.

I found a place with an engine dyno that's about 30 minutes away and $75-$100/hour depending on exactly what's they need to supply. They have a full machine shop including water jet & laser cutting and welding and they seemed more than happy to help figure-out how to get me setup on their dyno. They are just finishing re-configuring the dyno so the engines are on carts so once it's fitted to the cart it's minute to put it on/off the dyno so no issue having it sit while I work on whatever needs working on.

I'm thinking this will be the best path forward.

What type of dyno do they have?

If it's an AC dyno, it will make your life *way* easier since the engine doesn't have to actually start to run (since start/idle calibration is usually really difficult when you're also debugging software).

_________________
"Sometimes, the elegant implementation is a function. Not a method. Not a class. Not a framework. Just a function." ~ John Carmack

"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic" ~Arthur C. Clarke

It's SuperFlow SF-902
http://www.superflow.com/Dynamometers/Engine/sf902.php

basic water brake so there won't be any spinning a non-running engine...although part of the upgrade they are doing so adding a starter to the dyno. I don't know what that is capable of but I'd assume not much more than cranking rpm.

One thing with enginelab is you can make changes to the control model on the fly......[alt s] to stop the ECU,
[Ctrl Space] to open the model logic, make your change and [alt R] to start it running. Very fast. The down side is that by far the easiest way to work with enginelab is using sub models and a build script which is instantly outdated when you work directly in the complete model....but if you jot down where you made changes you can export that part of the full model back to the sub-model. You can also do most of the debugging in the simulator so on engine debugging is mostly just confirming inputs are what was expected...like batter voltage showing 2.19 instead of 12.5.

alternator, waterpump and front headers off.

That leaves:
oil pump and axles I think and it's ready to pull.....maybe Thursday or Saturday at the latest.