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Respect! Congrats, sounds quite good this time.

Thanks guys!

Tonight I confirms the CLT issue was the connector left undone


Then went and pulled the rest of the plugs. and was pretty happy until the very last one, #6 and my heart sank


I am still cautiously optimistic that isn't not serious because it white but also bone dry but I'll need to run a few tests so no roll it out and restart today.

Ok, I'm more confused now.

Spark is good, I was afraid maybe I did something wrong replacing the connectors but I assumed that wasn't if because the plug was dry.

Injectors are all spraying, I can't SEE any difference. This is were it got weird though....I pulled the spark fuses so nothing popped in my face and after seeing no fuel spraying realized the fuel pump wasn't on. Cycled power to the ecu and that was fixed but that was weird.

There was a relay buzzing last go when I stopped the ECU using the PC instead of the key....that still happens. The rela in question is the ECU power which makes me think there may be a short somewhere, so more digging.

Wade suggested a compression test

compression is 175-193, #6 is at the low end but 7 is the same so that doesn't SEEM like the problem and is more likely the ring not really seated yet after the coolant leaks as 6 & 7 were both about the worst for that.....but I'll hold judgement.

Those per cylinder EGT sensor bungs you welded up would help diagnose this

Just sayin'...

Although for not running a hand on the pipe is probably just as good

Normally not running I should see on the NB02....so either it was running but very lean or the other 2 were SOOO rich it was still just out of range. Replacing the 2WB02+4NB02=>4WB02 would get me past that but about a $700 investment so I'm hesitant.

1st up is get the ECU acting right....

Its looking like an ECU issue. The ECU always has power but when it see ignition on it triggers a main power relay that then turns on all the main power relays....that relay is always on and is the one that buzzes in the "stop" mode, and I confirmed with the o'scope that it is the ECU doing it. I suspect the driver in the ECU is damaged or failed for whatever reason. All this means the ECU is not shutting down or starting up properly which could cause just about anything. I did a hail mary firmware update and reload the model, but that changed nothing.

I can probably switch the power control to another output pin, the issue there is they are all used so something else will need a new solution.....but if it saves the ECU......

I sacrificed the oil pressure light to free up a pin for the relay control and the ecu is starting and stopping correctly again.

I guess its time for another test fire.

6 is now running and the plug looks like all the rest. The headers are smoking, when they stop I'll fire it back up and see if I can get a video.

I couldn't help it...9k throttle blip....followed by running out of gas

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfVAsGHSU5w