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You get a sticker? Sweet. That makes it all better.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

Do drag racers running that kind of power even run coolant? IE, are they on methanol or nitro?

They aren't running long enough to need it. They fill the blocks with I don't know what for added strength then start and go. Whole different game.

Actually, these days drag and drive events have been so popular that they do run coolant. A 632 big block on methanol for the track. They will build them with two separate fuel systems and run pump gas for the drive. They found that at 60 psi of boost the heads were "walking" on the block and it would leak water and get under the rear tires making the run no good. Tracks only allow water for coolant. So dry decking is pretty common now.
Some have used belt drive superchargers and just cut the belt off the drive on the street.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

My leaks are coming from around the liners and there is no block under portions....but a comment on another forum got me wondering if I could groove the flanges between the liners and fill it with RTV to seal the liners to the block? I might try that if the stuff I just ordered doesn't pass leak testing.

The valves came today so cop saw, mill, lap, cut the keeper groove and cut the OD down

Then I was feeling a little wood chucky and ground the seats on the lathe

but they came out just fine

I messed around with the new valves longer than I planned today. Yesterday I cut the OD and ground the seats to make them look about right but when I measured how they were sitting I had to cut off another .010 and .012. The intakes are pretty critical to get the springs setup right since the cams are .452 lift and the spring are good for .460, but the exhaust lift is only .420 so +/- .010 on installed spring height is just fine. Then setup the shims so cam in and out of the head 3 times to get the clearances right, then start cleaning. Tomorrow more cleaning so everything is ready to go when head gasket stuff arrives. I need to place some other parts orders too, other engine gaskets I'll need, CV boots, and I'd like to switch to smaller master cylinders to reduce the pedal pressure, its ok but I think I'd like it better if it needed a little less force so 3/4" cylinders out, 5/8" cylinders in is the plan.

Reached out to a buddy with a 348 who just did a tilton pedal box in and logs fluid pressure.  He says the rear should be about 50% the front.  I have F430 calipers and rotors which are all 4 the same size as are the 348.   A 308 used smaller rears both rotor and piston size...so I probably have a pretty unbalance system and I just haven't driven/tested enough to know.    I kind of knew that but figured since the F430 is setup that way because it does help under very slick conditions....when I would realistically NEVER drive my car but in theory it could help.  I have both a balance bar and an adjustable proportioning valve so it would probably all work out fine once adjusted. 

What I did today was order a single 5/8 master I'll install on the front system thinking that will let me start with a much closer to balanced system.  It won't drop the pedal pressure as much as I was hoping but I guess once I had to start cranking in the proportioning valve that would have increased the required pedal pressure anyway so its probably a wash.

Once I got done thinking about brakes as a way to delay cleaning engine parts I got back to clearing engine parts and I think everything is clean and ready to assemble. I also got the grime out of Ferrari and beveled the cam covers so there should be no more o-ring cutting happening.

I LOVE the patina on the covers Mark- I remember when you first did that 15+ years ago and thought it was so cool. But they look even better now reflecting not only time but all the work in/out and on/off... Truly amazing work STILL- Cheers mate.