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I did not have a lot of luck today.

I did decide to test the changes to the fuel pump relay and it now works fine so that's the good news.

The bad new is it's not running, it's still popping back it's now leaking coolant in #7, 9, 12 and I can't get back into the shop for a few days....so I decide to drain the coolant so I don't have to think about it. Next will be leak down and compression in every cylinder as well as confirming each coil is actually sparking and go from there.

I'm very confused........I read more facts than I currently have.

wow, pretty discouraging. Keep the faith!

Leaks can be fixed easily enough.....but clearly I've been assuming something that isn't true somewhere so it's time to take a breathe and sort what's true from what I've assumed is true. If the engine has to come out and right now it appears it does then it will be time for plan B which is start it on a test stand or the dyno.

Mark, when you think of the surgery this motor has undergone it is not unusual that there might be little things to be cleaned up. You are doing on a shoestring what those in the Motor City spend millions on.

A little porosity, what did Coventry use to fix the Climax F1 motors in the 60's: super glue - worked a treat!

While it is a pain in the butt for you, the finding and fixing is a learning experience to us watchers..

Best
John

yeah....I know it's to be expected but it still annoys me. The leaking seems to have been caused by the popping back, must have found thin sections so maybe it's just as well because it would have leaked in the future.

But why it's popping back I don't understand. I don't have anything that fits in the the 12mm plug holes the TR heads have and my lead-down test is functional but crap so I ordered a new one with the correct adapter and the adapter should also work on my compression tester. I don't normally do these tests on fresh engines because the parts need to run before they seat properly....but it will tell me if anything is REALLY wrong. I'll probably start with just the compression test.

The flywheel is a 36 tooth patter so I'm going to get 5 colors of paint and mark the flywheel every 6th tooth (the #1/6 is already marked) so I can confirm timing at each cylinder is correct. Before checking on the engine I'm going to confirm the timing of the ECU signals on the bench so I know it's set the way I think it's set. I'll also confirm the the coils I think are firing are the ones that are in fact firing so I know the wiring and components are all good.

If that all looks good the fucking thing should run......but it doesn't run so I'm betting I'm going to find something wrong somewhere on that check list. Once the check list passes I'll try the engine again (maybe with no coolant in it for the moment) so I know everything that needs attention before I start taking anything apart.

While I may have dodged or mostly dodged the mulch bullet this year Lana wants me to remove a bearing wall so I really need to move this testing along quickly or I'll be on construction delay for a month or so...unless I can push construction to the fall.

The ECU output is exactly what I thought it was. I need to confirm the wiring now.

The wiring is correct and all coils have good output and the plug wires go to the correct cylinders....hmmmmmmm

Still waiting on the new leakdown test, hopefully it comes before the weekend.

What does "popping back" mean?

Flames coming out the TB stacks.....like when the timing is so wrong it's sparking during intake.

Not too hard or expensive to change out parts including the glass and cameras on the smart phones. Pretty easy to find the parts and sort of fun to do. I've done a bunch for myself and friends, could be a very lucrative side business and very easy to do. Better yet just get someone to give you thier broken smart phone and repair it for yourself? All you need is about $8 worth of tools you can buy online and you can take apart just about any phone.

The camera for my Samsung S4 is $14 on ebay. Very cool little device with incredible connectors on it.