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The 400i and 308 manual say water at 8-10 bar for 10 minutes....my intake ports would likely explode

It looks like its dropping about 1/2psi/hr.....not way I'd seen that with water even at 10bar instead of 2, water is 50x more viscous then 5x the pressure so 1/10 the leak rate.....0.05pis/hr, or 0.01psi in 10 minutes, I'm sure its a pass.

8-10 bar? That would certainly find leaks...

The factory wants the test done as quick as possible and clearly figured out how high they cold run the pressure...I guess. Its an aggressive test for sure.

13 hours later its at 16 psi so it leaks air, WAY slower than last time but a leak. I guess today I'll fill it with water and see what that does.

I went back in the thread and checked...I clean the dripping sealant out AFTER the leak test so i don't actually know what the leak condition was when I installed it.

So I just did a visual inspection before starting the final water leak test. This time after letting the sealant sit there isn't anything serious dripping....this is about the worst of it with the drip well above the ring travel line so now I need to grab some distilled water as the stuff out the my tap acidic and high calcium.

Water's in and back up to 30psi....let the waiting begin. This test setup took almost no air to bring it to pressure...there is no rubber hoses or anything else to stretch so just a quick touch with the filler then bleed it down to 30 because I could pull the the air nozzle off fast enough....my point is really ant water loss should be obvious pressure wise.

So the water test lost 1lb/10min...but everything was dry?......hmmmmm...I did remove the air fitting to add the water....reseal the fitting now its back to 1psi/hr right where it was with air and again everything is dry....how it that possible?....I must still be doing an air leak test and there must still be quite a bit of air in the system or the rate wouldn't be the same?....Yup, I pulled the block off plate and no water to be seen, filled, shook the engine, filled, shook, repeat and got almost another 3/4 gallon in there so for future reference it holds just shy of 2 gallons.

Now I think it is actually full of water, I pulled the gauge and added an extension pipe so I can get to the nuts that hold the plate on better and aviation sealant on all the pipe threads, resealed the plate to the block but now I need to wait for that sealant to harden a bit before I can restart the test.

In other news when I went upstairs in the shop looking for fittings (which I didn't have) it smelled a bit like burned electric.....the compressor that was leaking but seal cured before I replaced it is now seized and may have taken the motor with it. Yay! I have something to do while I wait for leak test results I guess

Good news is I'm pretty sure the heads are sealed

Bad news is I'm pretty sure the bottom of cylinder #9 is leaking into the sump....I watched it drip.

Good news is this is its very slow even at 30psi and the sort of leak stop leak generally stops

Bad news is I'd like to see it not leaking before I put the engine in the car but the stop leak need to be circulated and probably under enough pressure to be leaking to work its magic...hmmmmmmmm

So after thinking the plan is to separate the engine from the trans and re-pressurize to be certain about where the leak is then fix it. I mentioned that my old and leaking compressor died for good the other day when the motor burned up so no air to blow anything out and the last leak test I had to use a 12V tire pump so I decided to find a compressor before starting engine work.

Tractor supply had this 5hp 2 stage for $1100 which is an upgrade and seemed like a great price for its specs but will need no wirings and a new location so it will be another day or 2 before the engine comes apart.

Why settle for a compressor when you can get a MEGA compressor?

It even has a broad-arrow W3 as well! Straight out of MotoGP experiMENTAL tech