Yes to all the sander thoughs. What I have is prefinished oak...red oak to be specific which is important later. The finish on refinished contains aluminum oxide, so it's really hard. And even though our boards are "square 4 sides", not beveled, the long sides they put fair large radius so it's hard to see, but the edges sit low by at least 20 thou which means quite a bit of sanding. So what I did on side 1 and am repeating but doing better on side 2 is start with the drum 36 grit to get the finished of and grooves out, then 60 grit.
Attachment:
20240630_144613.jpg [ 2.7 MiB | Viewed 1650 times ]
Then rent the edger and same 36, 60 where the drum couldn't get.
Attachment:
20240701_220450.jpg [ 2.77 MiB | Viewed 1650 times ]
Next they have a 3 pad orbital, I'll do 60 and 100 with that and same along the edges with a 5" orbital.. I know pros will do the finish with the drum and edger, but I'm no pro and as you say the orbitals are much more user friendly.
Then a defect inspection...fill anything that needs it, blend out any dings. Then 2 applications of a 2 step product (so 4 coats) called red out that gets rid of the red from the red oak. Dry 24 hours but that is a water base that raise gain so next a VERY light sand by with the 5" and 150 grit taking care not to get back into the red. Then a sealer that prevents the poly from getting into the wood and bringing up it's colors, then 2 layers of a catalyzed commercial poly (which is basically 4 coats of normal poly) with a 150 grit sand between coats and it's a "natural" floor that is anything but natural.
Attachment:
20240613_084411.jpg [ 2.01 MiB | Viewed 1650 times ]