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I knew of Hylomer as in heard the name but had never tried the stuff so it just wasn't really on my go-to list....but it should have been and is probably the better choice for the cylinder o-rings....live and learn.

I looked at all the bearings today.

All the mains are about perfect. Yay

4 bad and 1 sketchy rods....I'll probably order 6 just in case.

Popped out another cylinder, it was also pretty stuck. The liners are supposed to float so I can't imagine this is helping and I have a new plan....pop them all out and replace the epoxy paint with dryfilm lubricant, maybe something like this that is rated -100 to 500F

Just called and ordered the bearings....and I know it was probably his cell with caller ID, but calling the parts guy and saying

me "I need 6 sets of 308 rod bearing for a 10 under crank"
him "Ups ground ok?..wait I can probably send them priority mail
Me - yes, fine
him - I'll get those right out Mark" without further prompting made me wonder if perhaps this car has been eating WAY to many parts.

Also still pondering what to try next on the cylinders. The teflon stuff I ordered is probably way too thin....I'll spray some on something and mic it but it looks thin. What I was thinking when I found that was some spray moly lube I had years ago....dry film lube with low sheer strength so if it sticks to the block latter it won't matter. A guy I was chatting with suggested a spray on piston coating which which seems a good idea and I just ordered some sprat graphite dry film stuff thinking its very low sheer and also a really pretty good thermal conductor which seems helpful so I'll see what that looks like when it gets here and then maybe order something more exotic if I don't like it.

My understanding is that the dry film lubricants made with ceramic, Teflon, or graphite go on very thin (under 0.0005") and then are semi-sacrificial. With wear, the lubricants will embed in the surface they're applied to. My ceramic coater told me to fit the pistons to the bores before coating, making no allowance for the coating thickness.

I remember there was a reason you don't want to knurl them to get the OD correct, but I don't remember what that reason was.

How much do you need to build up those liners? You can buy stainless steel foil in 0.002" thickness - maybe applying that somehow would help?

I'm afraid the rough surface could damage the block creating even more work...it may be a nonsensical concern but that is what I'm worried about there.

As for thickness of the different options the idea was order a few and see what I get on a plate or rod to see if any look worth trying on the cylinders, 1-2 thou is what I'm looking for

Is this essentially Cerakote in a spray can? Or is it more like teflon?

I think I'll find its worthless....I saw a video after I ordered it and it looked really thin. When it comes I'll spray some on something and measure it hoping but not expecting for 1 thou

Maybe idiotic, but: sprayweld/machine? There are a few Youtubers who have the equipment and might get a nice episode out of it?

We mentioned Line2Line before... they just too expensive or not right for the application?

Edit: You can apply a coating to both the block and the liner. 0.0005 thick coating will give you 0.002 on the diameter once you spray it on the OD of the liner and the ID of the block bore.

I've seem it done to repair a big shaft, but on this it would almost certainly ruin the liners. Cast Iron gets hard spots when it gets hot and even if that didn't happen I can't imagine they would still be round holes inside.....better and probably less work to just replace at that point I think,