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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 10, 2021 3:43 pm 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:
I was hoping the blue smoke in your previous start video was just assembly lube burning off


Me too....and in some respects it was and all the shit in the front bank header burning out but...yeah.....I think I probably need to fix the intake ports which in the scope of things is minor but time intensive.

2k is as low as I could get the idle so i need to look at that but I'm guessing the slightly looser lower injector o-rings were a poor choice so I'll look at that as well.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2021 10:20 am 
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The consensus is that what I'm seeing is Evans coolant so step 1 is K-Seal as its the only product on the evans list of compatible sealants that says it seals head gaskets. The reviews are about 2:3 so in an hour when I don't feel bad making noise in it goes.....then I expect Sunday I'll start pulling the engine to replace the gaskets but today it mechanic in a bottle day.

As for offending cylinder, its really more which is the most offending...6, then 3, then 7, then 12. I'd heard the end cylinders are the worst because the forces are unbalanced as the bolts clamp on 1 side not both....this result would agree with that. 6 is pretty bad and didn't always start once I ran out of ether which I guess is why I thought it was getting better and might be just the buggered mixtures. 3 concerns my a little as it could be something else...but maybe not

here they are, all rich running around 0.9 lambda but at least starting to look similar, they were literally black and white a couple days ago...stupid ITBs


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2021 12:02 pm 
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the k-seal Christmas miracle

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7vevXzqf6k


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2021 12:26 pm 
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So that is idling full warm with the throttle as closed as I seem to be able to set it....it will go more if I push on the plates but then they get stuck. timing was at 20 so I pulled it back to 13 and got the idle from like 22 to 15. Once I'm a little more confident is everything I'll see if I can get it down to 1000 or so.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2021 6:58 pm 
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sadly I think i was over optimistic and the Christmas miracle was ether. When I have clean plugs and start with ether all the cylinders run...and burn the waterless coolant and I see a little blue smoke. when the cylinders cut out the coolant vaporizes in the hot pipe and I see a cloud of white smoke. I tried some more of the one they say is stronger just now and will do a couple more heat cycles tomorrow....then I assume monday I'll order new gaskets and start pulling the motor. 2-3 weeks.

I did drive it around the block. The new steering felt good the new final drive ratio felt odd...ist gear and reverse are quite fast, the engine was running awful, very very lean..please make it home, please make it home....but I drove it for the first time in 15 years.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2021 7:24 pm 
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Pressure test the cooling system to try to isolate the leak before you pull the engine?


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2021 7:31 pm 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:
Pressure test the cooling system to try to isolate the leak before you pull the engine?


Its isolated to cylinders 3, 6, 7, 8, 12 :shock:

But I'm still hoping for my christmas miracle. A few heat cycles to get the cooling system under a little pressure and coolant oozing/baking into the leaks......then Monday I''ll pull it.

But it friking ran, sounds pretty badass and it drove! That's something to hold on to for the next few weeks.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 12, 2021 8:50 am 
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forgot....the new larger but manual brakes were good enough that that I didn't notice them. I was home and car in the garage before I remembered I was supposed to be paying attention so I'm going to call the fact that I didn't even notice they are now manual proof that they are just fine that way.

I'm not so sure the Evans coolant will be staying. I know I'm having head gasket problems so there is probably air in the cooling system but right now the engine is getting pretty hot. I currently have a 180F t-stat but replacing it really wouldn't change anything as it doesn't look like the the radiator and fan can get the coolant temp below about 100 sitting at idle, admittedly high idle, but idle and the drive (bottom graph wasn't better. Also note the oil pressure falling as coolant temp rises as you'd expect with straight wt oil....but it ends under 10psi, oil temp gauge touching 200F and that is from the tank so hotter in the engine hence the low pressure.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2021 7:32 am 
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On the custom Boxer I built,the client wanted Evans Coolant. The water pump seal on the Boxer could never hold that stuff. It leaked non stop. Took it out and the leak stopped. I am sure it is great at cooling but it creeps into everything. I am excited about the running. Small (ish) teething problems, careful disassembly to inspect the areas of concern and then seal it up and send it. Daytona head gaskets are bad about leaking too.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2021 8:27 am 
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The Evans isn't very good at cooling....this thing is running at least 20-30 degrees hotter than the supercharged V8 was. I just looked though the logs from 2017 and for sure when the t-stat opened at 80C, the engine stayed at 80C. That is not true any more so I'd need a bigger radiator with this stuff. I like that corrosion is not a thing but.....


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