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front head retorqued. The main wrench just fit, I had to cut the other one a bit but I got it



All the exhaust side nuts turned 1/4-1/2 turn and 5 or the connectors the clips just snapped off, the black jacketing and heatshrink are not where I left them.....its way to hot there for the coils to remain there blocking up what little air flow there is. More work. This is why I like the tefzel aircraft wire though, that's all fine.

Cam cover gaskets should arrive Tuesday along with a new sump gasket so I can clean out any coolant that may be hiding in there. Another 10 quarts of 30wt breakin oil +5 qts of 20/50 to top it up (empty it holds 14 qt I guess) + new filters arriving tomorrow. Something is leaking pretty bad, I'll try and find that while I'm under it. Between the gaskets, oil, stoppleak I'm $300 into the head gasket leak at this point so hopefully I won't need to do it all over with the added cost of head and exhaust gaskets.

Also arriving some the correct 8.5mm x 3mm lower injector o-rings. Harder to install I couldn't get the idle under 1500 rpm so I'm thinking they may have been leaking air. I also had most of the throttle return springs disconnected which was done in an effort to try and get the actuator to pull less than 5A so I could use the driver in the ECU....that effort failed and I have an external driver on a 15A fuss so might as well make it safer and put the springs back. and clearance the sides of the manifold so its possible to remover the cam covers without removing the intakes.

I need to play with the tach again....the way I had it setup it was buggering the 5V output from the ECU. I bought a $13 freq to volt converter card...and the tach is working again.


Then cooling as it was running hotter than it should. I bought a 160F T'stat so I'll swap that once it arrives but t]stat open the fan was not able to hold the temp down. Could still be the leaking head gasket but...the radiator core is 21x18, the fan is called an 18" (maybe 17.5" really) and is 2950 cfm which is about best out there. If I add a should it will be flowing air over about 30% more core area which would probably fix the issue....

Well that's not DR-25, now is it?

Fans mos def need shrouds. Also, all CFM numbers are garbage. Go by motor current instead, with the expectation that larger slower fans are more efficient than smaller higher speed fans.

Also... Is it turning the right direction?

But it did work very well with the V8 as-is. The fan itself covers about 65% of the core and effectively has a should with the band around the blades...for sure it leaks berceuse it's not touching the core but as I said, this is the setup that cooled the supercharged V8 with no hint of an issue.



The more I look at it, the more I think all the numbers are crap. With Amps it looks like some are running and other are peak, aka startup. Mine says 11A at 0 static pressure but I measured 9.5A just now, I guess it could be 11A at 14V, but I don't have 0 static pres either and normally the go current draw up with pressure at first, then drops at higher pres.

The Spal site had graphs....

https://documentcloud.adobe.com/link/track?uri=urn:aaid:scds:US:72f00c3f-ac1e-4375-8d8a-859a7dbc33ac#pageNum=19

Their 16" fans are about 2000 cfm but current varies depending on model and how air flow drops with static pressure changes....butr what pressure I have I do not know. Much to think about.



You did make me go check, but yes, its going the correct direction. ...not sure it would matter much sitting in the driveway? but its right.

Ahh, I didn't realize this was still the same equipment you used with the V8. *IF* it sticks around after you solve the head gasket ish, then it does start to sound more like a coolant circulation or thermostat problem. Do you have a mechanical or electric waterpump?



Horses before Zebras... one less potential cause

I once had a broken connection which allowed me to reverse the wiring to the fan. With a fan turning backwards, overheating should happen only at moderate speeds.

The Evans coolant is a change, 12 cylinders a change, but before it was fine on a 100F day and it was only 45F when it was struggling now.

Mechanical water pump but it was just a guess at a pump that would work well it is larger than the 400i pump...I think it was for a BB Chrysler?...but modified of course

I popped the hood on my GLK350 and it has a 19" fan with big wide blades, similar but OI assume better than the fan I have in the ferrari. It is on a 15A fuss it looks like. This has me vaguely remembering about transfer efficiency related to speed differences and flow distributions and fans becoming obstructions......and how much more complicated well designed cooling systems are than they 1st appear.

In other news I drained the oil yesterday, cleaned out the tank and dropped the sump to make sure its clean in there. I was really surprised how much oil was in the sump, may need to look at that, but it looks like that fixed the oil leaks

Is the mechanical pump turning the right direction?