FoaTech wrote:
I have a jig, do I need to send it to you?
I was laying in bed this morning thinking about what I needed to make to hold the pistons...borrowing is sure a lot easier
I looked back though old posts and the best I can tell I never check the piston clearance. I cast the chamber (just found the fake stub cylinder I used but didn't recall what it was until I saw the pics), sent it to JE, trusted their work completely and installed the pistons.....which was clearly stupid. Not sure how JE got it so wrong but shame on me for not checking it
I spent lot of time with the simulations picking valve timing thinking its a pain in the butt to mess with on the engine so even though I KNOW I will be leaving HP on the table by not messing with it on the engine....I just don't believe I'll ever mess with it on the engine and the timing is set. Even on the engine I wouldn't be moving it more than a few degrees.....the simulator says its a mid-range vs peak power thing with a get here by giving there compromise and I was looking for the spot that made the least difference when I settled on my final numbers. If you drop the DM key in the box I'll see what kind of clearance changes I might want to account for with any reasonable timings I might ever want to try even though as I said I know me pretty well and will most likely never mess with it.....at least not until everything else on the whole car is done and I find myself bored.
My plan is measure the marks on all the pistons and go from there. Most car places say .080" intake/.100 exhaust on depth but motorcycle places are more like .050/.080 and these are motorcycle valves so I guess anywhere in between the 2 sets of numbers is good...probably go towards .050+ actually as the valve most have defected making the marks. Then I guess about .040-.050 radially and that will be good. Looks like all my new found compression after I had to face the heads when repairing the chamber is gone