gemellocattivo.com

I did take a look but didn't really see anything.
My neighbor heard the ruckus and stopped over which distracted me a bit so no videos or the second drive (1sy was in the spring I of last fall?)...I'll likely fire it up again though and try to do better video wise.

I did check all the lift clearances before putting the heads back on....not sure what went wrong exactly but I'll find out soon

Sorry it's taken me so long to get back about Water Wetter. They guy who answers questions on the Red Line site was out sick and then there was Thanksgiving. Here is the question I asked:

I use Water Wetter and distilled water in my Europa. I keep the car garaged where it never gets near freezing. I don't think I've ever driven it in freezing weather. Even though my car never overheats (I wouldn't be surprised if Water Wetter/distilled water coolant is partly responsible), I am much more concerned about that than I am about freezing so I haven't been using antifreeze.

In the white paper attached to the Water Wetter page, it says that it is not for use with magnesium cooling systems. I could swear that it also said that for street engines some (15%?) antifreeze was recommended but I can't find it now. Anyway, I imagine that most aluminum casting alloys have some magnesium and I'm wondering if that is why the antifreeze is recommended. For people with cast aluminum heads (and blocks), would Water Wetter and only distilled water be appropriate if the climate is mild and the car is protected from the elements?

Any clarification would be greatly appreciated!

The part about "aluminum heads (and blocks)" was a reference to the FrankenFerrari. Here is the answer:

In your cooling system where freezing isn’t experienced water, preferably distilled and WaterWetter is ideal. The 15% A/F note is to prevent icing of the heater core in a cooling system with air conditioning. Some aluminum alloys could have trace amounts of magnesium, this wouldn’t be an issue. The concern is a pure magnesium component, that isn’t sealed in contact with coolant, very rarely the case due in part to it’s highly reactive nature.

Thanks for that info.

Suns out, roads dry so I did another around the block.....holy shit is this think fast. There is a blip to 4k rpm in the middle, that is the burnout that happens when you crack the throttle to 30% while rolling. I think there is video but on the gopro so it needs to be retrieved, post when available

I marked the burnout on the log, MAP is 57.8kPa so there is a tad more hp left in it  

video
https://youtu.be/4qiE4-Lu9t4

Congratulations!

Gears seem kinda noisy... you remembered transmission fluid this time?

Seems to have good low end too, when you went to 3rd because 2nd wasn't cooperating.

Right so....
First I haven't needed the shifter gate in 15 years and I don't recall what box its in so I was guessing where the shifter might need to be to get the gear I was looking for.

Second, once the drop gears are run they bed together and I've messed with then. I could try flipping the idler gear around, might help.

3rd, it has ridiculous low end, it spins the tires at like 2200 with a throttle blip....it just goes and is freakishly smooth even though it only 11 run

Congrats again, it moves under its own power! Looks like a real handful. What does the finished product weigh in at? My 720 is scary sometimes but has all the modern helpers on sticky rubber - this will require lots of moderation…

I still have a few issues to sort but I think yesterday's proof of life video makes it official ...there are now 5(?) V12 308s in the world

weight right now should be near stock..3300lbs?

I'll admit I'm not that worldly but I've never driven anything like this. I made all kinds of simulation graphs over the years, looking this or that but I truly was not prepared mentally for what 300ft-lbs of torque at idle means exactly. I kind of understood form the 200ft-lbs at idle engine which is why I flipped the drop gears but it never occurred to me really that 1st gear would still be or questionable value or that the idea I had way back about adding traction control isn't exactly optional. Jesus this thing is fast.....

You might not have noticed as I back out of the driveway and pull away just how effortless the steering is. Amazing upgrade and I don't think I could go back to the wrestling the steering wheel days.

The now manual F430 brakes definitely require more pedal pressure. I thought maybe with the larger rotors it would kind or be a wash but no, more pressure is required but at the same time the pedal basically doesn't move from the time the brakes engage....you apply more pressure to stop faster but everything is so rigid now the pedal just stays put, its a very different feel that takes some getting used to. I only had a chance to do 1 lock up at 1 speed so far so I've not started adjust the front/rear bias or the proportioning valve. They work and certainly stop the car but I really want to try different conditions as I just can't believe my guesses on settings are right.

The new way stiffer springs feel fine for normal driving so far, again though something I need more time to really evaluate.

Newish tires or not? I know from direct experience how fast tires timeout on a project. Plus, if new sticky tires were in place, they did not have time to warm up. In addition, sticky tires by definition don't work year round.