I also use a torque plate when I hone it as well. I have seen that without it, the top doesn't deform like it does with the head on it.
They are not cheap, but they work like they should.

I'll need to think about that a bit. No doubt its best if working with cylinders in the block...but I still haven't quite gotten my head to that place....deep down I know that's where I need to get my head too.....I need to look at the logistics of it.

It looks like the stuff they sell is typically about 2" alum.

What I'm trying to get my head around is ferrari makes cylinders and drops them in. They designed the head studs to put the cylinder in near perfect compression by screwing them into the main bearing webs not the deck...but I don't doubt things move when torqued....what I"m trying to get my head around is if I believe its repeatable with the slop of drop in cylinders or if the cylinder move differently and/or move in service?

The liners are raised so I guess a head gasket is required under the torque plate or for sure the deflection will be different than with a head.

Lots of work left before I get here so I have some time.

ordered a couple .197" cobalt reamers to get the guides close to size.

I also decided to order a hardened and ground 25mm rod remembering that the cam journals were all warped and needed to be welded up to get straight then I borrowed a cam reamer. It was awesome I could borrow it but it was honestly more than a little dull so I'm kind of guessing the journal IDs which I never measured after reaming are underside. The bar will be to lap them once I confirm they need it.....not sure its a functional plan though. Also ordered a nice new a 25mm hand reamer, not a true cam ream as it doesn't do them all at once but it will ream the 1 while in the second and they sure already be pretty straight so a viable back-up plan maybe.

Have you checked the cams and bores for witness marks yet?