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Keeping aluminum engines pretty http://gemellocattivo.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=350 |
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Author: | TheDarkSideOfWill [ Fri Oct 04, 2019 10:38 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Keeping aluminum engines pretty |
Where do/did you get your plating done? |
Author: | mk e [ Fri Oct 04, 2019 11:56 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Keeping aluminum engines pretty |
TheDarkSideOfWill wrote: Where do/did you get your plating done? My stuff came plated so I'd guess multiple locations, I didn't send anything out. The issue was on the oil pressure sender (OEM ferrari), the starter (chinese), the nuts and washers (fastenal mostly but some from mcmaster so I don't know origin). Then also on the aluminum here and there....but for sure where coolant spilled there were issues near by. |
Author: | TheDarkSideOfWill [ Mon Oct 07, 2019 4:34 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Keeping aluminum engines pretty |
From Corner Carvers relative to Porsche 928 restorations: Teutonic wrote: I'm not familiar with the POR product for engine blocks. One other thought is using Cerakote - I have been using Cerakote MC-161 on drivetrain pieces to protect the aluminum castings after making them pretty. It hasn't been long enough to be able to comment on longetivity and there are no seasons in SoCal, but the stuff's ability to bead water is pretty impressive One of these hub carriers has been coated, one has not. I can't remember which is which. When dry the aluminum is very slightly darker, perhaps because it's a matte finish and thus slightly less reflective. Cerakote has this application guide: https://www.cerakote.com/resources/file ... -18WEB.pdf And recommends exclusivley MC-5100Q for aluminum; it has a high gloss finish, which may not have been what Teutonic was looking for on his Porsche restos https://www.cerakote.com/finishes/MC-51 ... -aluminum/ |
Author: | TheDarkSideOfWill [ Fri Dec 13, 2019 10:43 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Keeping aluminum engines pretty |
cribbj wrote: It's actually aluminum colored and it was developed by PolyDyn in conjunction with some Busch Cup teams to coat the inner/outer surfaces of intake manifolds and make it look like they were still uncoated. On my engine, the surface looks slightly brighter than a bare, clean cast surface, but not by much. Your best bet would be to contact Carl Benton, the owner of PolyDyn in Houston and ask him about his heat retaining polymer coating that looks like cast aluminum. I do need to find out info from PolyDyn, but I have some Cerakote MC-5100 based on a recommendation from a Porsche guy. It sounds very similar to the PolyDyn product and the photos he showed of suspension pieces match your description. Here's my Caddy block: This is from a couple of weeks ago now, but will be progressing this weekend. I'm shining up the V in preparation for having some acid pits welded up (should I braze them instead?). After that, I'll throw on some Cerakote MC-5100, and probably clear POR-15 on top of that. I'll also be working on the outer sides of the block and lower crank case as well. I'll definitely MC-5100 those... not sure about adding the POR-15. The cast-in-place iron liners make the block a bad candidate for anodizing, but the lower crank case does not have any ferrous material in it, and thus could be a candidate for anodizing. The oil pan could be as well, if I drill out the rivets that hold the windage tray in place and remove the tray for the anodizing bath. |
Author: | TheDarkSideOfWill [ Wed Jun 03, 2020 11:24 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Keeping aluminum engines pretty |
The Colorado block arrived... I spent the prior weekend deburring, porting the bay-to-bay breathing windows, had it cleaned at the local basic rebuild machine shop during the week, then shined it up last weekend. Right now it's at the local custom gun shop getting Cerakoted with MC5100. My plan is to have the local race shop line bore it with the heads on, going for minimal change to the crank centerline, then take it up to ProMar in Jersey to have the bores honed and inserts installed. I'm not sure if I'll have the race shop or ProMar clean up the decks. Then I can assemble the short block! ETA: I wore out a LOT of wire brushes... here's the ones I would recommend using: Code: McMaster PN Short Name McMaster Nomenclature/Description 4916A13 5/16 End Brush Stainless Steel Brush with Shank for Tight Spaces, 5/16" Brush Diameter (1/8" shank for Dremel) 4911A79 1/2" End Brush Brush with Shank for Tight Spaces, Long-Lasting, 1/2" Diameter with 0.01" Diameter Stainless Steel Bristles 4797A32 1.5" Wire Wheel Brush with Shank for Angles and Corners, 1-1/2" Brush Diameter with 0.012" Diameter Stainless Steel Bristles 4797A33 2" Wire Wheel Brush with Shank for Angles and Corners, 2" Brush Diameter with 0.014" Diameter Stainless Steel Bristles 4797A55 3" Wire Wheel Brush with Shank for Angles and Corners, 3" Brush Diameter with 0.014" Diameter Stainless Steel Bristles For a whole block, I recommend getting 3 of each wire wheel, 2-3 of the 1/2" end brush and about 20 of the 5/16" end brush. You'll need a die grinder to take 1/4" shank tools and a Dremel for the 5/16" end brush. The 5/16" end brush doesn't last long as it only uses 0.005 wire, while the others use tougher wire. The 1/2" end brush is actually a really cool design; it has three plastic rings around the bristles stacked from the end of the crimped shell. As the protruding wires wear, break and bend, which would normally be the end of the brush's service life, the plastic rings protect lengths of the bristles. You can pull off one of the rings and get some more wear out of the brush; and even do that twice more since it starts with three rings. It's a cool idea. |
Author: | TheDarkSideOfWill [ Sun Jul 19, 2020 1:51 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Keeping aluminum engines pretty |
I'm reasonably lucky that I have access to this place to work on precision stuffs. Coated block: The luster of the surface is "deeper", like it has been clear coated, but that does not show up well in photos. The whole coated surface of the block looks like this... you can see that the side of the cylinder and the head bolt boss tube looks "wet", like it has a sheen of oil... or has been clear coated. That's the coating. That a surface has been coated is immediately obvious to the touch. The coating is hard, very smooth, and actually quite slippery. I need to evaluate what the coating looks like under the heads of the "outside" crankcase to block bolts. Mic'ing a whole lotta bores... Valley as I was putting the (ugly, filthy) heads on my bright shiny block |
Author: | TheDarkSideOfWill [ Mon Jul 12, 2021 5:28 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Keeping aluminum engines pretty |
This could also go here: TheDarkSideOfWill wrote: Quickie showing more shiny stuff:
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Author: | TheDarkSideOfWill [ Tue Oct 05, 2021 4:27 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Keeping aluminum engines pretty |
TheDarkSideOfWill wrote: Getting rid of the temporary oil pan: And the "flight qualified" oil pan in place. Bling TheDarkSideOfWill wrote: Getting closer!
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