gemellocattivo.com

1-2-2008
I was thinking spring/summer '08 when I started, but spring '09 is a lot more likely I think. There is a LOT left to do. The engine is just a rough shell that needs to be finished and built, I need an intake, headers, exhaust, cooling system, dry sump conversion, adapt the trans, ECU install, port the heads, finish a brake upgrade I started.....no shortage of stuff left to do.

1-3-2008
It does look a little Miura-ish now that you mention it I guess…..I need to add a big “Ferrari” script to the cam covers so there’s no confusion




P.S. I'm starting to think I should have taken you advice on switching to a TR drive train.....this is a lot of work.....

1-3-2008
Come-on up! The beer fridge is just out of view in the pics, but centrally located in the shop for easy access.

The new engine is 3.48" short from the mounts to the crank than the stock one....that's a 2x4 (3.5" wide) for test fit purposes. Finally something was easy.

1-3-2008
Tillman PM’d me what seemed like a very sensible suggestion to use a 6 speed GM transaxle. The particular one he had in mind is probably too long to work for me, but I like the idea of a 6 speed and being able to set the engine lower would be a nice bonus.

If anybody has any thoughts on a transaxle that might be a winner, let me know…...I wonder if a VW/Audi DSG trans could be used??? A 6spd paddle shift V12 308 would be way way cool



....That is certainly the question. It would be from a front drive model, but again I don't think that will work.

1-3-2008
Wade, I can assure you that you did the right thing when you sold it. I'm still kicking myself for keeping it after the fire that you only missed the fire by 6 weeks.

1-3-2008
Sorry, no carbs.....I'm trying to make hp

It will be individual throttle bodies See post 60 for pictures.

1-4-2008
I should have bought a whole TR engine and Trans like Paul suggested and I'd be almost done now I think, but noooo....

I think at this point I've got all the major parts, I guess I could back off my 5.5 liter goal and go 5 liter with stock TR liners. That would let me use the stock TR head gaskets which I think would be a plus in my mind...but I want the extra displacement too.....I'm so confused.......

1-4-2008
Thanks for the kind words and the offer. I haven't turned-up cylinder liners yet, if you have any 348 liners laying around or know of some???

1-4-2008
I’m pondering the whole trans adapting plan now the Hans ruined my DSG plan with facts.

The smart thing to do is put the crank centerline right where the 308 crank centerline was line. That is the way all the previous 365 engine conversions were done and the way I mocked it up in the test fit pictures.

The second option is harder but probably better. The V12 is a 60 degree vee, so it’s much narrower than the original V8 leaving 2-3 inches of space available along the front firewall. Moving the engine forward the 2-3 inches would let me sit engine at least 2-3 inches lower in the car and I think if I can go the full 3” forward, I could go 5-6 inches lower in the car since I’m already dry-sumping anyway. I’m pretty sure that would yield a very noticeable improvement in handling and I know the extra space on top would let me do a better job getting air into the engine. The down sides are that it means custom bellhousing and drop gear casings and 5”is enough to fit a blower on top with room to spare so I’d be adding a HUGE temptation.

I’m already thinking of doing a major rework on the bellhousing to reduce the length so that makes option 2 pretty tempting. I think with the multi-disc clutch I ready have, a flywheel I need to make since I don’t have anything useful and an aftermarket hydraulic throw-out bearing I think I can reduce the assembly length by 1.5”-2” making things fit a lot better. I may even be able to avoid a custom input gear on the trans…maybe…I’m pretty sure if I skooch the whole trans and inch to the left along with the bellhousing rework the stock drop gears would work.

I’ll put the engine back in tonight and mock it up in the forward location and see how it looks.

1-4-2008
I just took a good look at the pictures I posted and clearly I was standing on the wrong side of the car last night when I was thinking....on the right side the engine is hanging over the frame and clears by less than an inch as it is. If I want to lower the engine I'd have to relocate the water and oil pumps so I could saw the bottom of the timing cover off.

Or I guess if I sit the engine so that whole section is on the outside of the frame so it can drop down along the frame it might work. Oil would build up in there though unless I run another scavenging line from the dry-sump return pump over there......hmmm.....maybe it could work...….but I guess I’d still be limited to lowering the engine about 2" before I'd have to worry about the crankshaft clearing the frame. I’m not sure that would be worth all the extra trouble....maybe