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FrankenFerrari - V12 ferrari 308 part 1 http://gemellocattivo.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6 |
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Author: | mk e [ Thu Jan 08, 2015 3:54 pm ] | ||||
Post subject: | Re: FrankenFerrari - V12 ferrari 308 part 1 | ||||
2-9-2008 I thought nap time was over but it wasn't quite so back to the shop to start the pan extensions. I want the pant to match the look of the engine and that has round corners. I don't have a roller so the easiest way for me to make that is to just buy tubing with about the right radius, quarter it, and then tweak it into the right shape with a mallet....plus a little weld will hide a lot of mis-match. One side is pretty much done, just a little more trimming then one more and a plate to go between and it's time to weld.
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Author: | mk e [ Thu Jan 08, 2015 3:56 pm ] | ||||||||
Post subject: | Re: FrankenFerrari - V12 ferrari 308 part 1 | ||||||||
2-10-2008 I got the right side all welded together today. Once I grind all the welds I do't think anyone will ever know it didn't come that way. I just need to make a semicircle and weld it on the left and the trans case is ready for final machining. The case has to be finished machined with the pins to locate the engine before I can move on to the bell housing and drop gears if I want to have any hope for getting all the parts to fit together in the end.
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Author: | mk e [ Thu Jan 08, 2015 3:57 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: FrankenFerrari - V12 ferrari 308 part 1 |
2-11-2008 Everything is TIG welded with straight argon. I do pre-heat, although not as much and as well as I probably should, I go to about 200F. My welder is a 400 amp machine but the torch I used (W20, water cooled – you want a water cooled torch if you don’t already have one) is only good to 300 or 350 depending on which brand….mine is supposed to be 350 but that must be under ideal conditions because it’s looking pretty melted these days. For the block I had the welder set to 325 and had the pedal to the floor a good amount of the time and that requires a 1/8” tungsten. The trans is not as thick, I’ve got the welder set at 300, but almost never have the pedal all the way down. With more preheat you can use a lower power setting but you have to watch over heating the weld zone, aluminum weld best when you put the power to it and go fast The more you pre-heat the less distortion you should get…at least in theory but any time you weld anything the only thing you can count on is that it’s going to pull in the weld zone. The block is out .010” down the main bearings and will need to be fixed by either oversize bearings or welding up and re-cutting the journals. Also on the front face of the block it’s pulled in around the bores and I’ll need to weld up the surface and re-cut it. I think the trans is ok so far because the precision stuff is far enough anyway from where I’ve been working, but I won’t know for sure until I get it off the jig and check it. |
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