gemellocattivo.com

OE rubber is fine. I've seen some data showing that it's just as stiff in terms of volume growth per psi as braided stainless, and requires MUCH less maintenance...

Pedal box makes the balance bar between the dual MC's inaccessible?

You need to check in more often....the new lines will be here any day.

I have to say though that is almost shocking info. I've done SS lines on a couple roadrace bikes and the difference in feel was quite dramatic both times....this was mid 90s though so maybe more modern OEM lines have improved? Or maybe the car lines are different from the bike lines in some way?

I can get to it parked with tools. but the balance bar and a proportioning valve don't do exactly the same thing.

The balance bar affect the f/r ratio at all braking forces so this is the same as say smaller pistons in the rear.

The proportioning valve only changes the f/r balance above it's set threshold.

So my thought is set the proportioning valve to 0 and go out on a rainy day where braking force is low and use the balance bar to get the basic low force f/r balance set. this lets me keep as much rear braking as possible.

Then I go out on a warm dry dry where braking forces are high and all the weight that is ever shifting forward will shift forward. Now I use the proportioning valve to keep the rear from locking.

I think setting it up this way give the max braking possible under all conditions and replicates what the factories do when they set up systems. Inherent balance set by sizing all the components properly (I set with the balance bar) then dynamic balance set with the proportioning valve.

.....I think......

I think the f/r lockup limit should be set even lighter than simply locking up the rear wheels on a wet day.

I had a brown pants moment once where I set it up like that to start, but when hard braking mid corner to avoid something the back goes way lighter than when driving straight and the rears will lock far easier. Something to keep in mind on day 2 of setting proportion valve

As for the balance bar, how about remote adjustment - have you room for a remote adjusting cable kit?

http://i00.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/310/440/ ... 10_475.jpg

Brian,

Probably wise to find the limit then go back a turn or 2.

No room in the box for a cable type adjust

the wheel speed indicators/front rotor adapters and almost done, they just need the wheel bolt holes....maybe 1 more hour.

I decided to just stick to the plan and make them steel....they really don't weight much anyway since most of the metal ended up as chips.

I continue to be amazed - would love to have your skill with a lathe and a mill!!

More things for my retirement list..

John

Thanks John. Remember I got a head start on this stuff though when I cleverly decided not to go to college out of high school and ended up working as a machinist and one of my machinist jobs was in a fabrication shop which both gave me the chance to see how things were supposed to be done. The down side was that this all led to me working while trying to take classes after/before work and race on weekends. Good preparation for this phase of my life I guess

This should be compulsory for all designers - the price of everything would half.

Brian,