TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:
Well clearly you're capable of running a dedicated ground, which is obviously a better idea than grounding through the door metal. Rodney is a great bracket maker, but he's not an engineer.
Clearly but I'm not sure hotrodding the windows is on my to-do list at the moment.
I just went and measure voltage at the window motor the drivers side is 10V down, 8.5V up. The passenger side is slower even after cleaning and about 8.5 down and 7-7.5V up. no wonder they are slow. This is with the charger on the battery so 13.7 at the battery.
The wires going to the door are decent size at 16g so that is not the issue....that leaves the switch and connectors along the way. The little solid state window accelerator really boxes they sell aren't really going to solve the problem either as the power still goes through the switch. The ground doesn't so I guess 1/2 the voltage drop which is an improvement but the right answer is the switch controlling power relays so the switch is out of the power circuit completely and the power wires get shorter. I may take a look at it today.....the front console is hitting the throttle pedal and needs attention so I'll have at least that off anyway. Fitting this means pulling new wires from the switch to the relay panel and pulling the window power wires out of the center and to the relay panel...I'm sure that are wrapped and tied....just time.
Others came to the same solution and after all my rewiring I have 5 empty relay slots....I guess I know what I'm going to due today.