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Which means "Evil Twin". Lets see your projects where you change boring into fun or create the fun from scratch.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2022 7:22 pm 
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I let the TV suck me in this morning but after lunch I finished up the motor mount brackets and got them painted.    Some of might want to avert your eyes at the graphic images of welding on tabs...as in making tabs from weld because I'm too lazy to actually make them so I #D printed then with the TIG 


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2022 9:39 am 
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Next up is replace the shifter shaft seals so I'll post this....when I filled the trans I used redline 75w90. Looking now I'm thinking maybe the 75w90ns would have been the better choice so I ordered a gallon of it.

Thoughts?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2022 10:00 am 
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Is 75W90 really what's spec'd for that gearbox? I would not have thought that the entirely spur gear power path would need oil that heavy. GM Synchromesh fluid is thinner and makes the GM gearboxes shift better than they do with ATF.

I know hypoid bevel rear ends are typically spec'd with more like 120 wt, and 75w90 isn't out of the ordinary for older transmissions, but I would think it would shift better with a thinner oil without sacrificing the lubrication needs of the spur gears.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 08, 2022 11:10 am 
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The manual calls for 80w90 and redline recomends the 75w90ns which . Looking at the MTL which is 90 they say this:

Safe for brass synchros, as it lacks the reactive sulfurs found in most GL-5 oils that cause damage

So brass appears to need NS types of lube...but the standard stuff with sulfer is better for the LSD.....so redline says to tune the diff using their LSD addative as needed.

Which all seems to say I used the wrong oil last time as I was looking mostly the the LSD part on the label


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2022 11:16 am 
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Quick update as the weather here is clearly turning to spring and I'm clearly not ready.

I got myself all confused with my motor mounts with a dimension I don't know how I measured.  I remeasured everything and have decided I want to shorten what I made by 1/8" and call them done, I'll get that fixed later today hopefully.  The bolts I'd ordered are a bit short but the longer size was the longest mcmaster has in fine thread so I had to reorder everything in course thread which I don't like and cost me another $60 which I like even less but they will be here tomorrow.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2022 11:54 am 
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Make sure those pieces end up chrome plated to make sure everyone looks at them.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 15, 2022 2:11 pm 
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TheDarkSideOfWill wrote:
Make sure those pieces end up chrome plated to make sure everyone looks at them.


No chrome but I shined them up for you while they were on the lathe, so NOW they're done


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2022 10:26 am 
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Nothing actaully keepiong me from the shifter shaft seals other than motivation. Hoping this is the last engine install I'm thinking I'll leave the sump off and do a propper shifter adjustment....the power of positive thinking


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 17, 2022 8:05 pm 
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Pulled the engine and trans sump to night and foundblack stuff in the engine that looked and felt like oil but didn't seem to mix with the rral oil....coolant maybe? whatever it was its cleaned out now.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2022 10:36 am 
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Ferrari likes to stake things together.  I'm remembering changing these seal during the V8 rebuild then deciding it was too much bother during the V12 work as they were still pretty new....but no doubt got pretty hot with all the welding and that V8 rebuild was 2002 so they are now 20 years old besides.  I'm trying a super secret upgrade after being sworn to secrecy but going 1 additional step and also switching to viton thinking the headers heat this area up pretty well...hopefully once these are replaced there will be no more oil leaks. I need to paint the headers too just noticed them sitting and realized I forgot.


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