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Warm idle is really good at just under 750 rpm and it comes off idle nice and smooth. I let it run for about 45 minutes with no overheating, the ECU turned the fans on/off 3 or 4 times and it never touched 80C. Good.

https://youtu.be/7Bunm2COwe0

Did you re-synch the throttles to get it that low?

Yes, that was most of the problem. It was way out bank to bank after teardown/ reassembly. Then played with mixture a bit and I left the timing at the 6 degrees I needed to slow it down last run....which also helps keep the off idle smooth so I might leave that or maybe give it a couple more degrees.

This might be too low just for oil pressure but it runs fine down there.

Yeah, good point... even if you can take the throttles off as bank assemblies, they'll still need a little adjustment between the banks to put it back together.

6 degrees might be a little low. The steady state idle should have timing a little low so that the ECM has head room to increase torque via ignition advance to respond to transient loads more quickly than it can increase airflow... but you already knew that.

I would have thought an engine that can turn up that high would have lots of oil pump capacity... is the oil pressure really that low? Did the oil get hot in the 45 minutes of idle time?

The oil did not get warm, 140F or so and at 750rpm the pressure is 12psi ish....at 1000rpm its around 25psi and at 1700 its around 55psi so it climbs very fast with rpm

I do not currently have anything programmed in the ECU to control idle rpm with timing...I could...but I haven't. Right now its just throttle position, baby steps.

Factory spec for a 400i idle is 1000, same for 308 and TR.....probably the lowest it has cleanish emissions. Wade said he likes around 800 and oil pressure in the 12-15 so I may speed it up a touch...but I am temped to get a video of it at 600 cause I know I could becasue the multiMAP and auto mixture control just works that good

To be fully honest #12 is still leaking enough to keep the plug white but not enough to should the cylinder down. I have the bars leaks pour and go stuff on if now (https://barsleaks.com/product/head-gasket-fix-1111/) that says its antifreeze compatible and can be left in so hopefully it at least won't get worse or I can do another flush and hit it with the water only stuff again.

Its supposed to rain all day so any ru8nning will be limited at best, not the take it for a drive I maybe hoped for. The fact that the issue is #12 kind of messes with my TB sync screen it compares everything to 12 because the actuator connects to 12 so I'll make a new screen that displays the MAP reading directly, maybe 30-60kPa range so normal idle 45kPA is straight up and easy to see.

Also I have no working O2 sensors....the WB aren't connected and the NB I was 1/2 looking at are full of shit and showing lean when its clearly quite rich. I think I have more of those and it so I'll get them swatted ou and then have another look at the WB code..Jim sent me hisso I cold start there maybe. Little things.

Color me confused

Just for fun I ran a compression test 180, 170.......0 on #12. that can't be right, so leakdown...100% leak with the air coming out both intake and exhaust valves....but it been running fine I think and MAP wise is not really distinguishable as it's pulling good vacuum or was yesterday. So either I truly bent all the valves during assembly or the coolant leak was so bad the sealer stuff had baked itself onto the valves so something like that?

Rain is supposed to stop for an hours or so soon so I guess I'll fire it back up and confirm #12 runs? Its always something.....

I'm pretty sure something is wrong with 12.

I did get the turning a little better so it free revs smoothly idle to 9k. I may play a little more with cold starting before I pull the engine so I know when it goes back in the engine will start and run right. Also did a short little drive....it really just wants to go.

Sounds like valves are hanging open... If the valves sealed, it would have more than zero, even if you left the rings on the workbench!

You verified length, right? Solid lifters, right? So setting lash verified that they weren't sitting on the base circle and staying open.

Keepers & retainers installed correctly? You can pull the valve cover and find out more before pulling the entire engine. Of course you can't do anything with the timing drive while the engine is in the car, so that may be of limited utility.

At least you're down to ONE cylinder having problems and it's not the same problem!

Do you have an endoscope to look into #12 without taking all apart?
And where is the video of it revving to 9k as well as the first drive?
Congrats on getting it running at all after all these years!