gemellocattivo.com

That's an amazing accomplishment. Good to see that you have solid leads on hunting down the remaining issues.

I have to say, that image of 12 separate MAP readings fills my heart with joy. I'm guessing that I would need to add some kind of CAN solution to my bike to handle 6, is that right? Or could I get it more simply with the correct choice of ECU?

So step 1 is you need a multiMAP board. Its double sided and is designed so you just make as much as you need, you can literally saw it to turn 12 into 6. The board has a single main output that any ECU can read on the MAP input. That reads 6 but outputs 1 and it will run good.

To read 6 is another story. Any ECU with 6 spare analog inputs can read and log the signals but I don't know of any ECU setup to USE more than 1 MAP signal other than mine. An ECU without the spare 6 inputs, could use a CAN expander to to read, display, log the signals, but still not use them for any engine control....its not a normal feature.

Today was clean the plug...very black today so clearly I was going the wrong way after changing the stoic value...oops. And lots of variation with the MAP trim off and me messing with the sync by ear...another oops I guess. On a good note, 1, 3, 12 all dry, 6 & 7 just damp so I'm guessing 1 more run section and the heads will be sealed...hopefully

I rekeyed all the new timing mapping in. Did not rekey the bad tuning. Did rekey the MAP trim % function and its working correctly.

That bought me to the # 7 on the multiMAP issue. I did have 1 new MAP sensor!

...and installing it made the problem worse. It ended up being corrosion in the board itself killed power to MAP 7 so for now I added a jumper and its fixed.

....but long term I guess I need to be thinking about a new board. If anyone is interested in a multiMAP group buy/build let me know.

An aside a buddy txt'd asking if I want a set of 4:1 scale levers...yes?


An amazon had a 400lb scale on lighting deal at $11 but the other 3 I had to pay full price so it ended up $58 for 4. I'll drive up and grab the levers Saturday and find out what this car weighs....kind of curious.

I did some rework on the fuel map and got into the cylinder trim tables a bit trying to even out plug colors and they are not so bad after like 30-40 minutes sitting at idle. I play a bit more with that but in general I'm pretty happy.


7 has been white all along and today I added 20% more fuel....still white so I'm thinking it just leaking so bad its steam cleaning itself but the sealer is really trying to work and was able to filled the plug gap

Hi,

I know this isn't the correct place to post this but I've tried over in the electronics section but since my account is new I need to wait for a Mod to approve the post so maybe here will get attention.
This also should be a DM addressed to you but I cant since the account is new as well.

I'm working on a engine swap and I bought a AEM 308 ECU to run it, I unfortunately didn't do enough research and didn't know the software doesn't immediately allow for custom cam/crank patterns. I looked into the infinity tuner software and found the data table file the software pulls from for its setup wizard and added the needed pattern based on research and waveform data. My concern is that in the pattern setup other files are referenced and I'm not sure what they do and I don't want to possibly damage my freshly built engine if it doesn't like what I've dome. I tried to contact engine labs through their website and Jim directly from the email you posted but I have not gotten anything in multiple weeks. I was wondering if you would be able to give me some advice or help me contact EL since you seem to have a repertoire with them.

Thanks,
Tyler

Sorry I missed that you were waiting, I'll go down and look at the other section. So AEM is a mess now, holley bought them and dropped the ECUs. They were enginelab's bigger customer and after that Jim just stopped supporting anyone other than commercial customers, he ghosted me as well. Engine lab is not AEM...AEM sell (sold) enginelab hardware with a locked version of the software and a "model" that they created. If you load the full enginelab software it will erase the AEM model and you need to build your own.

IF the patter you need is one that the engine lab software support, then doing what you did sounds fine. If you tell me what the pattern is I can check if its supported in the software I have. But5 really what you need to do it try it....with fuel and spark disabled. I have separate fusses I can just pull so there is NO WAY fuel or spark are happening then you can safely crank it with a scope hooked up and make sure you are getting what you expect.

mark@gemellocattivo

I drove the 3 hours each way to pick up the scale levers and they came with a pair of used but still usable yokahama A052 295 tire...man they are wide. The 285 sumitomo's I have are about 10" of tread, these are closer to 12 so I'm REALLY glad I got a free pair to test fit.



Weights (with at least 5 gal fuel)
Total 2970
Front 1228
Rear 1744
Right 1498
Left 1504

Now we know.


Getting it sealed I idled it for 45 minutes....that's right it frikin sat there idling for 45 minutes and nothing broke!
https://youtube.com/shorts/I5ZZsmLp5aQ?si=zEMNrVk2a6I52dpy

but 7 is leaking badly. I pulled a sample of the coolant while it was still pretty hot and shot some onto the cold welding bench....it did nothing....so I hit it with a torch to see it react and the water boiled on and what was left was a little gick, not the white ceramic you need a sander to remove. I now believe this stuff is dead at 50 minutes. I was remembering needing to do multiple heat cycles so I tried to use the wayback machine site to find older instructions to see what changed but no luck. So I dug back though the forum to see what I said...yeah...this is not the sealer I used last time or ever, no idea why I thought it was.

Tomorrow I will go get the barsleak 1100 headgasket sealer that worked but needs at least 3 heat cycles and a well flushed system and hopefully get this think sealed.

The bars leaks stuff is a process....run 10, sit until the cool enough to open the cap for a top up, run until operating temp then 15, cool 45, top up, run until operating then 20 at high idle, cool 1 hour, drain, sit with drains open 12-24 flush, refill. All the running is done, tomorrow I'll know....I'll probably fill it with water again tomorrow just in case I need to repeat.

What I really wanna know is how many pounds of welding rod are in this magnificent creation...