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As I'm sure you know, there are a lot of intake manifolds and ports that have permanent epoxy for doing stuff like raising the floor of the port. If you get lucky, it might be something you don't have to replace.

Here's hoping I didn't just jinx this for you...

Its got A052 tires all around now. I'm told these like about 3-3.5deg camber to work right so kind of funny...I stopped at the small shop that helped yesterday, but they were closed and since these were new tires the big store would do them so I dropped them. When I picked them up the small store guy was there at the big store so I had to apologize but did talk to him about getting on his alignment machine and he was more than open to helping me out when the time comes. yay.


I bought a replacement powersteering unit, it will be here in a few days and I can get that sorted, I REALLY miss the power working. But for now I'm out of things to delay myself from looking at the ports.

I was trying to work on #7 but the leak in #12 was so bit it made it about impossible to find other leak so I started with 12. This one the leak is very high in the port so it wasn't causing much oil problem. I put the air hose into the crank vest could hear/feel the air coming out. I ground it and you can see the issue, a whole lot of spray cleaner, then filled with the H-450 Alumbond and really worked it in trying to some bite in the crack. It says 4-5 hours to harden....and I don't want to disturb it.....I decided to add some heat thinking it will setup a lot faster and its probably a good thing to cure it closer to operation temp so less stress running. Now I'll wait a couple hours then move to another.

Hmmmm....looks like welded something shut on the cam cover and probably sanded most of the weld away so it blew open on the pressure test....more glue and back it it tomorrow I guess

Port repairs continued today. this morning...ok, around noon, I found and glued a hole in #7 and walked away to let it harden. While that was hardening I checked my notes from when I did the porting to confirm this area is really not a very critical to flow, just make it smooth so I cleaned up 12 and its done. Just now I found and glued a hole in 6.

While the 7 was hardening I took a look at the front bank TB linkages that were giving me trouble. When I originally designed everything I wasn't really thinking that I needed 2 different designs so the front bank was a last minute change and clearly suboptimal as some were hard stopping on the spring and a couple the screws were backing out while it was running.


I found some much stiffer springs to hold the linkage against the adjusted and cut them to a size the works well. Then I repurposed the softer springs to help secure the adjusting screws....hope fully this does the trick.



Here's the rear bank for comparison...you can see the springs are in different placed because they operate in the opposite direction.

Hole found and fixed in #3....I think that's it. I'll do another look tonight to be sure.

Ebay steer unit guy canceled the order, new offer made to a different seller.

Since I'm waiting on the injectors I'm thinking I might make new a-arm mounts to correct the roll centers and maybe add the antidive in front. I look at it tonight.

Onward and upward. It is getting there. I am excited to see it and here someday. In person.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

I didn't actually do anything last night but tonight I did the final sand of the glued ports and a final leak test and didn't fid any leak....hopefully that means there aren't any more leaks.

Then I pulled lower a-arm mounts from 1 side. I've hear they are a pretty marginal design and I'm pretty sure they were supposed to be straight


Anyway, mostly I just stared at it a bit. The stock mount are offset 20mm which seems quite a lot and it does make me wonder wft they were thinking? Its like they designed it and moved the chassis into production before the suspension guys finished or maybe more likely it didn't drive great and this was part of the fix. I'm leaning to making new wheel carriers but I want to give it some thought.

Hazy memory but didn't the 328 get a recall to have new front suspension forks made from thicker, stronger material installed due to failures of the original? I assume that would apply to the 308 as well.

I was just reading something about that. On the 308 I've heard of the forks cracking and clearly they bend. I could make forks that are plenty strong even with a larger offset and that is for sure the easier thing to do it just seems like to loads the frame weirdly. Not sure what I want to do exactly