gemellocattivo.com

There is a plan kind of jelling in my head right now that involves a spacer on the bottom of the wheel carrier and a barrel bolt  to reach through the spacer and grab the bolt on top of the balljoint to let me space the lower ball joint as low as I want to set it.  Its the first idea I've had so far that I don't hate anyway. 



I've read that for motorsport type use roll center general want to be 15-30% of CG (about 2.5-5.1 for me) and on a rear drive car the rear should be closer to 15 and the front closer to 30 to get good grip on the drive tires....which is opposite of stock 308 setup that got worse when I lowered it  and might explain why I was always hunting for rear grip, removed the rear sway bar, tried softer rear springs and such.  Dropping the front balljoint lets me easily get up toward 5" in front even with stock a-arm forks





Then in the rear a small  change to the forks gets that looking pretty good

I had a great idea that to create a pretty serious 66% anti-dive I could just invert the front A-arm mount.....but no


The factory mounts are 20mm offset, no way that is fitting unless I cut a chuck of frame out. For sure 0 will fit and that will yield 34% anti-dive. I think 10mm drop will fit and that yields 50% so 34-50 somewhere is where I'll end up. I need to pick up some metal and longer bolts so I can get the camber I think I'm going to want. Then I will set the roll center height with the ball joint spacer that I hope works the on the car the way it works in my head.

I know you want to change the geometry, but could you also box them in? I'd have to go look at mine quick...I literally just had all of that out for new inner bushings.

sjd

I have been giving boxing and reinforcing of some type a lot a lot of thought. For sure I can make the forks strong enough regardless of the amount of offset they have. Were I get hung up a bit is how it loads the frame, a bigger offset in the bracket adds a bigger twisting force (yes I know the right name is moment) to a frame that doesn't have great torsional stiffness and also loaded the snot out of the mounting bolt.....but it sure is easier to turn a 20mm bracket into a 30mm brackt than it is to weld new mounting points into the frame so.....

The injectors are are there way home....out of spec.  Injector Dynamics puts them into set with under 3% total  error and these are now 5.4%.  They are also too old to get replacements for the out of spec injectors so I need to buy a new set of live with it.  For that reason they only charges me for the return shipping which was incredibly nice.  I have cylinder trim tables so with the info on the graphs I can note what cylinder what injector goes into and even them out in the trim so not the end of the world and not worth a new set just yet.  They are on their way home so I need to work fast on the suspension...my local hardware store only had 2 bolts each of the sizes I needed, need to find some more in the coming days.

Before



After

Just realized I bought the wrong size bolts yesterday so instead of 1/2  what I need I have none...mcmaster will bring the right ones Tuesday making getting the suspension back on a race against the injectors returning.



It wasn't a total lose though, I went a different way than normal and spotted this sitting looking lonely and unloved.....I'm trying to be strong and not go knock on their door.....

New front A-arm mounts for 42% antidrive, check. Stock is +20mm, the new are -5mm, that sets the lower A-arm at 6.4%. Because the spindle is toward the read of the A-arm, the change only lowered the axle line 5mm.

I started be making a little jig, I didn't have wid enough stock, so I pulled out the mig welder and made it wide enough then cut a radius on the corner

The metal for the brcaket gets tracked on

then heated and bent

then cut it off

Then to the mill for holes , shape it, and tack a bolt


and it fits

I do have a no ugly parts rule so I cleaned up the stock one

Sitting at the bench looking at the car sitting with a jack holding up the left front it struck me how flat the car was sitting...jack the right just inside the rocket panel, both fronts are up off the ground. Nice.

Oh man, brings back some memories.....not quite the same model, but I pulled an unloved and in pieces 1992 907ie out of a friends garage. It belonged to his brother-in-law and had sat for a while. A bit of work cause the gas tank rusted inside and the fuel pump had died, but lots of fun times on that bike after I put it back together

I'm pretty sure that while trouble shooting my power steering issue I fried the new controller off the replacement unit while hoping I could swap a new controller in and not need to pull the whole assembly

Looks like fix the PS is a winter project and I may do something different to try to make it more robust. I found the CAN signals needed to make the prius units work correctly and they have a remotely mount controller so that is an option or just a more robust relocation setup for the fiesta unit I have (once I get another replacement)....either way, winter project.

My focus for now is just being ready for when the injectors return later this week. Once its running I need to get the air box on...I'm remembering there was an issue with the fuel line in the way and I just removed to test fit the airbox and never corrected the issue. But no air box, no hood, no inner fenders seems like a great way to get gravel in the engine so that is high on the list once the intake goes back on.

I say knock on the door. What's the worst that can happen, they give it to you to make it go away?

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver