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Amazing news.

The BaT V12 308 was no sale at 73k, reserve was 175k if anyone's shopping.

Oil fitting replaced and cranking at 56psi it doesn't leak.

The intake manifolds are on and the fuel system leak checked.

The plugs are all black so its pig rich when its warm and I wasn't imagining it losing pedal response as it got warm. Hopefully the new WBO2 controllers give me more helpful readings. There is still a hint of oil on #6....maybe? but I suspect with the mixture fixed it will be fine.


Also there's oil on the plug bodies of 9&10....leaking cam cover I guess. I'll put some silicone on it until its apart again.

Tomorrow clean plugs in and get the TBs synced. Then re-assemble the air box and such.

Love it!

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

I added a few more channels to the log list last night, 19 now? All still at 20hz but each channel can be at it's own rate is I so choose but for now all 20hz. I kind of wish I'd set this up before....no more forgot to start a log events.



I was playing with the throttle setup last night, battery charger connected and had no problem getting the actuator to oscillate after a fast throttle pedal move which is bad, so I worked on that a bit. Its kind of a tough game to keep it stable but also responsive and also settle at EXACTLY the set point so idle will be repeatable. Its a PID and I end up cranking up the I term way past where the basic "how to tune PID" formulas suggest......but it seems good now and ready for a real test tonight.

Tonight did not go exactly as planned


Its just water but I do not see from where exactly. Driver's side I think....maybe damaged a hose moving things out of the way? Clamp not right? I don't see it. Tomorrow I will fire it back up with the wheel off and try and get a good look.

I did sync the TBs but I was struggling with idle. Perhaps because synced it just idles better or maybe linkage isn't exactly as it should be after having it apart? I extended the link from the actuator to the TBs which should make sure the TBs can fully close. Tomorrow I'll see if its better.

Also I forgot to plug in the air temp sensor. It mounts to the duct now and I just forgot so it was pretty rich thinking the air temp was -20C...so about 14% extra fuel going in I guess.

I don't really see much oil, a couple drops that's good I guess.

Tonight on the way home from work I stopped at autozone and grabbed a loaner radiator pressure test kit...i had no idea that was a thing. You pay them for it as a deposit, use it , return it and t5hey refund the money so its free to use.

Quickly found a poorly positioned coupler hose leaking under the car and got it fixed. Then plugged in the air temp sensor and fired it up, had a look and it was dry. re-checked the sync, pulled some fuel out and it was running pretty good so I pulled it in ....and there was a small puddle, water.....and realized it was now leaking a lot. Lost about 1/2-1 gal on the shop floor. Looks like the real problem was the coolant manifold that lives under the intake leaks badly when its hot and under pressure.

I start pulling the intake but just don't like burning my fingers....tomorrow.

I got the shipping notice from 10point7 on the new WBO2 controllers but looking through logs while I ate breakfast I think a big part of my WBO2 sensor issues has been the sensors trying to tell me I had mechanical issues in the engine. Bank 2 has pretty much always read about 15% leaner than bank 1 but 2 years ago cylinder 12 was dead so that was the correct reading. A couple weeks ago plug 7 was white, it almost certainly wasn't running so again that was the correct reading best I can tell. Yesterday when I started I had this


0-5% error between the banks, but rich. Also note the purple coolant Temp correction going from 30% to 15% and lambda staying nearly flat so that is pretty close to as good as it can be I think.

When I went to check the TB sync I saw the 10 for cylinder 10 had popped off its MAP sensor so that was getting WAY extra fuel


Near shutdown it looks like a cylinder in the front bank was dropping out at idle and back on with higher RPM

...hopefully later today I'll find #10 is fuel fouled and don't need to hunt for another cause.

Wednesday I got the coolant stuff back together.

Thursday day and all were pretty black but a couple looked like they they shouldn't fire, so cleaned again. #6 was oily ans I found and (I think) fixed another leak in the port. Intake back on. It was past I can start it time but still early so I decided to hook up the vacuum valves on the mufflers. The vacuum hose off cylinder 10 was a little shorter than the others which is why it popped off the MAP the other day, so I added a T and a short bit of hose to fix its length. Off the T another short bit of hose to a check valve, the back to a solenoid valve, then the actuators. .

Today I took 1/2 a day to run out to copart to un-suspend my account, my son made a deposit to place a bid but his name was not on it...BAD!!!!. Got home and added code to the ECU to open the exhaust valves at about 300hp and close them when it drops top about 280hp. I was all out low/high GPIO outputs but the 2 throttle controllers were available and I realized I could use them as 4 highside, yay! Fired it up and immediately noticed the difference in sound level....hard to hear on a phone video maybe but:
https://youtube.com/shorts/iS-fNTynbXI?feature=share

I let it get good and hot and not leaks. As it run it was clear the tuning was buggered by the mufflers so I worked on that a bit and the front bank lambda was I think reporting gibberish....I'm certain they were wall lit yet it was about 20% leaner than the rear bank, decided to ignore it. TB sync looked fine so I shut down and reinstalled the air box and off for a drive. The other mufflers are definitely a lot less hash, much more appropriate for general driving.
https://youtu.be/wap5xv1PamQ

I brought my son along for his 1st real ride, I need to train him to be a better ride a long tuner. It was looking and acting pretty rich, mufflers and I'm thinking I may need to have quiet/loud VE tables. I set the gopro up horribly so the interesting stuff doesn't show, a pickup seemed to truly believed he could hang behind near the start and a vette thought he'd walk away near the end, both were mistaken, I need to check the log but I don't think the mufflers even opened. By the time we got back it was smoking again, oil tank maybe? Don't know but it wasn't too bad and burned off quickly once I stopped so I decided to let my son take a spin around the block. We practiced stalling at the stop sign a few times and he seems to have that down pretty well now then finish without incident other than it was clear I really need to fix the power steering.

Tomorrow see if I can find the oil leak.

Figured I'd start with removing oil





Then dry it off a little.....hmmm....this could explain why low power was wrong after I just tuned it....then had to pull the fuel regulator to install the air box and clearly got distracted.  That log data is worthless.

I found the oil tank cap was not sealing, fixed that but still not the oil leak causing the headers to smoke so the hunt continues.

I did break down today 3 or 4 miles from home, a strong pull to about 6k then dead!  Checked all the fuses....hmmm.  I had the laptop logging so I looked and eventually noticed the TPS was 120% so the throttle actuator was working 100% to close the throttle.  I have a second sensor and I reprogrammed the actuator to use the other and got the throttle working but it was still dead, injection time 0msec....RIGHT! I have a flood clear setting so it TPS is greater than 90% during cranking it kills fuel to clear a flood.  I disabled that and got it running and home. yay!  

The issue was the clip locking the connector to the sensor is not locking still not sure why because at about that moment a work/autocross buddy stopped by to see it so chatted a bit and out for a ride.  The ride left him really confused.   1st how can this car pull harder than his V10 pickup at 2k and then keep pulling to past 6k where I rolled out and it was obviously just coming onto the cam?...he just kept looking over at the tach in confusion as we cruised in 4 or 5th and accelerated whenever we chose and then if I down shifted!  2nd was how can a naturally aspirated engine pull like that at any rpm?  He finally commented he'd been in cars this fast and certainly in cars that cruise as nice but just couldn't understand how 1 car could do both with near instant throttle response.  I've said its hard to put this experience into words.....and its not just me.

Oh, something a little odd with the brakes, the front right is first to lock....it happened twice, just the front right.  so pads not bedded?  alignment weird?  road pitch?  Butt dyno said pretty high g force....I need to look into it.

Tomorrow I'll load the tune I just made based on the last logs.  I had pulled out a LOT of fuel and now have it lean (if the O2 sensors are to be trusted) so slowly adding fuel back in and it is feeling better and better so everything seems to be going in the right direction.