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Walked into the shop and what the...


Oh my.....at least now the source should be obvious


Hot start was getting sad so I figured Saturday's no fuel pressure drive maybe fouled something but the 1st 3 plugs out say I need to look a bit deeper. I had the cylinder fuel correction off and a quick look at sync suggest it would have made the issue worse with lean 4 the lowest and rich 6 highest MAP. I have a handheld manometer with differential mode so I think I'll redo sync using that once i find the oil problem.

I have a dumb question:

How certain are you that all 12 injectors are wired to exactly the correct pins? If you had 2 switched, that could be consistent with some of the issues you're reporting - namely where what you see in the logs doesn't match what you see when reading plugs.

I think the risk of that specific error is very low. When I built the wires harness for coils and injectors each coil and injector got a unique wire color. Once it was completed and connected to the ecu I wrote a test program to let me fire each coil and injector separately so I could see it spark or spray fuel. I'm pretty sure I have all that right.

Plus the cylunder fuel correction was off so all the cylinders were getting the same, other than the +/- 2% I plugged in from the injector data.... but this looks like a +/- 10-20%issues not a 2% issue so I'm confident it's air differences not fuel differences

Now, the cylinder MAP stuff....lots of opportunities for errors there and that could have led me to bugger the sync which would definitely cause the plug issues. So step 1 is check the sync using a different gage and correct the ecu if necessary.

You probably know this, but these gauge sets are readily available for doing 6 at a time. They're popular with the CBX crowd:

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/294697209606

$160!?!?! Sets of 4 are $35 on Amazon, I might buy 3 sets if I can’t get happy with the ecu based solution. I have a handheld digital manometer with a differential mode so the plan is actuator connects to 12, so the is plan is that is my reference and I maych all other to it. When I'm happy I see if the ecu readings agree.....i suspect they won't, but if they do I'll. Probably buy a pair of the mass flow type carb sync tools and repeat

Everything checked out with the sensors and their wiring, but we won't talk about which hose was on which port.

Problems found, problems solved. That is the heart of this project. 17 years of find and solve.
Good job.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

It's a mystery lost to time...

Sadly many of the problems I find are of my own making. I had this apart a couple times and can't remember exactly when I touched the sync screws....but synced is synced no matter what order the gages are actually reading so it doesn't really explain the issue I don't think....but its fixed and I'll resync the TBs

I also don't love the why I'm getting the cylinder MAP reading. The main MAP reading I'm very confident in but the cylinder are much harder because they go from true reading 1/4 the time to 0 3/4 the time. I don't have a great way to only look at them at the correct time so I take an average and then try to shift/calibrate it and it seems to work fine...as long as all the sensors are reading correctly, if 1 is say unplugged or otherwise malfunctioning the whole scheme gets buggered. I'll leave this fuel correction turned off while I think about a more robust way to do it a bit more.

Most all the velocity stacks broke....its like the screws tightened themselves while it was running.


I'm reprinting them now and ordered some metal sleeves...when they get here I'll machine the prints to accept them and that should prevent a repeat.


I was planning to fire it back up this afternoon, but the new WB controller should be here today so I'm thinking I'll get those on-line and plan to run Wed or Thursday. My general plan is ignore the oil leak for the moment and focus on the other issues.

For the oil, it about to get pretty cold so I will just plan on pulling the engine. That will lets me fix the leaking front cam cover, reseal the timing cover and probably rework the whole feed/return oil pump part that makes installing such a bugger. and if I'm doing that I'm thinking lower the return pump and hoses....I know the setup is suboptimal and strongly suspect I'm seeing the oil level in the sump vary significantly so exactly when I shut down its full or empty and leaks or doesn't so 2 problems. That and fix the power steering are the big must do winter items and I guess suspension geometry will move to if there's time list.

Let me know if you want me to do an FDM print of those in PAHT-CF (cf-reinforced high-temp PA nylon) - you can then fit the sleeves with a soldering iron - no machining required. Printed parts are supposed to have a working temp of almost 200C. Here's the spec sheet:

https://shop3d.ca/products/bambu-lab-paht-cf