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Im hoping that by winter im finally working on this

The new fitting came, I though about just popping the new fitting on, but decided to cut the hose back like ?I'm supposed and WTF? The ID is completely blocked


A new hose is on the way so a couple day delay until it runs again....but how bizarre. When i was looking for the leak I was sure the hose was leaking but couldn't see any damage so figured it had to be the fitting....nope, the hose was leaking. Its also completely blocked so I question if this pickup was doing anything last fall when the oil leaking started.

There were a couple dips on the other side today too but I couldn't see from where. The plan is run it at least 1 more time on the stands, maybe I'll find it then.

I did try to register for the Pocono autotX 6/28-29 but registration doesn't open until 5/26 so I put a reminder on my calendar so that is the current target.

The shock is done and shopping today so I need to crack on the the important work of wire and hose routing and tying....I think this is a winner for the engine bay:

So I started tying wire in the truck and somehow Decide to grab the bumper and muffler cover which I set in place


then got to wondering if I could do ANYTHING with the $500 each burned left tail lights so I wasted like 2 hours sanding and polishing to get them to an ok at like 20ft condition.

The good news is the new hose came and doesn't leak. Also its sitting in the garage on a warm night holding 80C for about 20 minutes. Shut down then come back 10 minutes later and run another 10 minutes and it was90C at fireup the right back down to 80C. Idle oil pressure maybe 25psi after like 10 minutes and held there so all good. When I shut it down the floor was dry.

The bad new is an hour later there's oil on the floor


And all over the transmission.


Last time I believed the oil returns head to block were leaking and had goo'd then with RTV but I was messy and I thought the issue was the oil pump housing so I cleaned all that shi...stuff off when the engine was out but it turns out 2 things can be true, the oil pump housing was for sure leaking but I'm pretty sure so are the oil returns on the rear head. I'm going to leave everything untouched, make sure its dry above the headers then pull the headers so I can see and be certain where the leak is.

And its not running right. Remember back I said I thought the ECU was losing its mind when I tried to use 2 stroke mode to avoid the damaged ignition channels, well that is still there just not nearly as bad. Its got a roughness it shouldn't have and for sure the rear bank is wanting to drop a couple cylinders. I'm suspecting coil 3 output (spark to cylinder 3&4) is not behaving exactly right. I'll look at the plugs tomorrow and probably move the out put to a different pin like I did for coils 1&2.

Headers off, clean, silicone on (need a mirror to see) headers back. There is a chance this works, I'll find out tomorrow.

There was also a little fluid dipping from the clutch hose connection. I snugged it yesterday but ok, I'll snug it a bit more...and strip both the hose end and adapter fittings. The adapter I only saw at Pegasus, if it ships tomorrow I should have it Saturday I hope.

And the shock is here so if I can get it to stop leaking everywhere I can drive.

Yesterday's effort had 0 effect on the leak


I can see the oil running down the what was the motor mount boss


.....tomorrow when its cool I WILL find it.

I move the coil 3 pin and nothing changed, still a little rattily as rpm drops. As I was pondering it occurred to me that at 6degree idle timing I should see the timing mark and I can't....its ignoring my idle timing setting and using the main table....I buggered something in the program and it HATES 15 degrees below about 1200rpm when its hot and that is why I thought the ECU was losing its mind before. I'll get that sorted before next run.

I had it starting pretty good cold but it didn't start well the other day when it was 75+ out and kind of gas fouled at least 1 plug. I have temp based corrections and could could sort it I'm sure but I decide to change my start strategy a bit. I usually cheat and put a pretty high VE in for cranking rpm...that is left over from the days when that was the ONLY option. Today I cut that way back to a number that the engine would probably like running and am moving the extra fuel to the start enrich where it belongs so bit more work to do there to get back to where I was.

Last I cleaned the plug before starting and still I have cylinders that want to drop. I leaned it out quite a bit from where I was....it could be it just doesn't want to idle near stoic. I'll look at the plugs again tomorrow and decide how to proceed.

Yawn. Just another picture of a bone-stock Ferrari engine bay. Nothing to see here. Nope. Move along, folks, move along.

More seriously? Stunning. I've followed your build for over a year, I think, and that it looks stock is amazing.

LOL. Stock is the look I'm going for. Ferrari makes nice looking things, no need to mess with the cosmetics

The gray RTV I put on the other day has turned to goo from the heat so it was never going to work

Its for sure the right hand side above that motor mount so at lunch today I cleaned off the goo and slathered it with the high temp orange and went back to work to let it dry. After work I decided to let it dry more and installed the repairs shock, found and fixed the idle timing issue ("Spark Timing" is the table, "Spark_Timing" is the output from the multiplexer that selects between the main table, idle table, and pedal blend calculation...the "_" matters), then played a bit more with the cranking fuel calcs and fuel timing and gave it a try. The timing was fixed but I also fixed it so it didn't start and the cranking drained the battery. After dinner and some time on the charger and a few more fuel tweaks it popped right to life better than ever. I let it get to about 70C and....its leaking. Its also still dropping a couple cylinders.

The good news though is its leaking differently so for sure I disturbed the leak. Its wet above my RTV on the left side of the bung so probably a weld on the metal I added to form the oil passage. Above the header flange its dry so I can probably slather on some more of the orange RTV to seal the leak and hide the mess with the header. Tomorrow problem

The clutch line parts are not coming until Monday, so I can keep messing with t5his without feeling like I should be driving.

I got a late start but I believe victory is mine. I found a pretty big hole in the oil return passage hiding on the bottom of the head.


Ideally I would weld it.....but today, engine in the car the answer is JBweld. Tomorrow I will leak test it before reassembling the header to be sure.

With the rest of today I think pull the plugs to see if there is any hint at why its misfiring. They are currently gapped at .025, I forget why I did that but I know it didn't fix anything so I think I'll open them up to 35 or 40 and see if anything changes. The OEM gap for the coils I have is 40 so that is where I think I'm heading....and maybe a compression test to see it something's gone wrong.

I want to get the wheels on this weekend and see if I can get a sense of where the toe is....so I know its ready to drive once the clutch fittings arrive.