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When I was laying out my pin counts and used up all the analog inputs the ECU has, I was forgetting that DWB uses 2 sensors on the pedal and throttle so I'm 2 short

The knock pins would work and I was thinking if I could use them to measure cylinder O2 but now that it looks like that won't work I'd like to save the pins for future knock sensors.

The ECU has 6 temp inputs of which I need 3 so 3 are available but they have a 1k ohm pull-up resistor on them making them less than ideal for voltage meaurements.......hmmmmm.......I spent some time looking the ECU board over under a microscope today and I'm pretty sure I've found the pull-up resistors and #5&6 are off by themselves and should easy to pop off the board which would convert them back to normal analog inputs.

Another possible option is to use custom firmware to read the WBO2 over the serial connection and the FW guy is looking into that for me......so 1 way of the other I'm getting 2 more analog inputs

When I grow up I will understand electronics and ECUs

Me too......

I have 6 AT(Analog Temp) inputs and only found 6 1k resistors on the whole board so I'm pretty confident and decided to go ahead and pop 2 resistors off the very expensive ECU circuit board. Those parts are TINY! I used 2 soldering irons as tweezers to heat and lift so as not to damage anything and it seems to work nicely....so AT 5&6 should now be effectively AV (AnalogVolt) 18&19 and I'm good to go.....I think.

Yesterday the 2 quieter mufflers I ordered WAY back finally arrived and they are just beautiful and WAY nicer than I was expecting for under $120 each. They're made to order in Alabama and appearently one of the late winter stores froze the shop so they were backed up. These are the old school perforated core design but heavy gauge SS so they should last way longer than my lifetime.

http://www.stainlesssteelmufflers.com/350mufflers.htm

The plan is to put these in parallel (notice the ECU speak ) with the loud borla racing muffler and ECU controlled valves on the borlas so at about the 300hp point so all normal driving is normal noise.

These are their "muffle car" design which are supposed to have decent rumble at idle but quite down nicely by 2000 or so. I went with 2.25" OD which should mean they are good for ....300hp-350hp maybe. Sizing is kind of important because it's the flow that does the muffling...too big and they'll be loud, too small and they whistle and choke the engine, but I can fix that by by opening the bypass valves early so better small than big I think.

So, as soon as I finish the brakes I think I'm ready to get back to exhaust.

Mark, when/if you ever sell this car, you ought to consider offering a lifetime consulting contract for the new owner. He's probably going to need it.......

I remember the old saying: "man designed it, man built it, man can fix it". But I think all bets are off on this one unless you're writing one helluva detailed journal, and making as built drawings, schematics, bills of materials with suppliers, etc.

It's already documented online with pics included. The new owner just needs to subscribe to fchat, flife and here.

LOL...I need to finish getting everything moved here

Nothing really photo worthy tonight....but there are brake lines front the parking master to the rear wheels. Getting close.

Still nothing photo worthy but Lana ran to the store and I ran to the shop and got a line run from the parking master to the front. Tomorrow on car day I'll master connected, bled and the brakes should work....hopefully.

In other news I realized it should be possible to use the o5e code base to create an adapter to force the motec to read my O2 sensors. The coding is a bit above my level but I have a tentative yes from someone who should be able to do it. That would be nice. I tried to shame motec into just adding an analog signal O2 option but I think I failed so a $25 adapter is the next best thing I guess and WAY better than the $844 motec solution.