gemellocattivo.com

Yeah, all the sensor grounds get connected directly to dedicated send GND pins at the ECU as will the analog line shielding. So that is a simple star arrangement with the busbar inside the ECU.

The question then becomes grounding the ECU itself and the various power consuming items. I'm leaning toward tying the ECU sensor ground to the chassis ground point right near the ECU, then tying the ECU power grounds to several chassis point that are NOT the one I tried the sensor stuff to thinking that will give the most stable result....but I'm not sure that's right.

Last night I made the 12V lines for the coils as 16g from the rely to 3x20g wires for the last 18", x4 to keep voltage drops low and there will be a relay for each bank so I know I'm not overloading the relays and the O2 sensor heaters will be on these relays too.

Then the coils ground lines. I found a chassis lug between the wheel and gas tank I decided to use. Again 16g to 3x20g for the last 12" on the power then there is also a ground for the trigger signal that I ran separate as 18g to 3x20g and these will all tie to the chassis lug. Then from the same lug I plan to run 2x16g another lug in the trunk away from the to the sensor grounds point and the 8x ECU power grounds and also 2x16G down to a lug just below the fuel pump the factory had the pump grounded to and I will too. That's 3 ground points that the loads can share....I think that will do it.

Did you see fc,,the smg nff 3.9 is 4sale for $245k.Your V12 is beyond comparison.
What battery are you using? Thanks for the schooling

i almost never pop in theer..got a link?

I have an optima redtop 34R battery. I wanted to be sure it would crank.....it takes a big wrench to turn it over by hand.

sorry,I don't know how but its on ebay308 for sale.Your/my feul rail/injector/TB setup is sweet,that nff gas line job looks poorshee.

I ran a bunch more wires yesterday....a few more to go before I can jacket the harness and start putting connectors on. another week I guess.

My condolences on the long week of wiring. Could be worse: 2 weeks.

Are you implying you don't have the skills enough to remove 4 cylinders???

No, I did an EFI conversion on a few QV intakes including Reg's that comes out nice and neat but is not a bolt-on.

My V12 conversion is simple to reverse....just pull it out and bolt in a new V8 engine/trans

There is at least 1 more week of wiring left

I planned to put the O2 sensor heaters on the coilpower but didn't order enough of that color wire....so I placed another wired order today. I also got a few more colors for additional line I haven't thought of yet. My plan is to run 4-6 extra wires up front and also a couple extra 3 conductor shielded. I know I want to add a steering angle sensor and a 3-9 position switch both for the traction control so the sensitivity can be adjusted and allowed slip can depend on steering angle...and I'm sure other stuff will come up so best to have the wire. Adding stuff in back near the ECU is easy so i won't worry too much about that for now. Also I have no idea what the connector is on the porsche throttle position switch so I bought a new one. They've been very fast so I expect to have all this by the week end.

Is the shielding really necessary? I know the Germans love to run shielded cable for everything, but GM only used twisted pair for their crank sensors, and even that was only most of the time. I've seen some applications that just used straight wire. After seeing that, I'm wondering if the use of shielded cable for ABS wheel speed sensors is just for liability purposes.

A Northstar Fiero engine compartment harness is only about 120 wires, but also 2/3 as many cylinders and 1/3 as many coils. I redid a dash harness in a Pontiac 6000 STE that was about 230 wires, but that had sense wires for almost every exterior light bulb.

I moved the 4L (ok 3.9L) stuuf to the 4.0 thread to keep it all together:

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