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No it's not necessary. I've done a number of installs using plain old wire that were just fine. What You get with shielded wire is peace of mind and not having to worry much about routing path or length in the harness creating noise. Some signals tend to have issues like 0-1V NBO2 and VR sensors at low speed where they are low voltage so shielding those is usually a good idea.

Here I figured since I have to run at least 2 wires to pretty much every sensor I could make thing more robust and my life easier is 1 shot with 2 or 3 conductor shielded cable. Also I still have my dream of running my o5e open source ECU and knowing I'm getting good clean signals to the completely unproven ecu seems wise.

The extra wires from the northstar fiero to this install are things like:
DBW means redundant TPS+throttle predal+actualtor so not 3 for a simple mechanical throttle but 18
...oh and the DBW actuator draws more power than the ECU can supply so I adder an external driver....4 more wires.
Traction control means wheel speeds, I have hall on the rear 2 wheel (3 wires each) and a connection to the stock VR speedo in the rear....8 wires.

But I also want a drive switch and steering position and maybe brake and clutch switched on the traction control....10 wires
I have 4 NBO2 = 16 wires
2 WBO2 = 8 wires I need to run plus the 2 controller to sensor pre-made harnesses, so 10 wires
I have MAP and also a barometric sensor, 3 extra wires
The MAP also has the ability to give me MAP at each cylinder - 12 more wires
But I don't haven all those analog inputs at the ECU so 4 more wires for a CAN expander
I have a "pseudo-DI" setup which means I really need to know Fuel pressure and Temp - 5 more wires.
I have a 4 mufflers setup with an ECU controlled vacuum valve - 3 wires.

I'm now paying for 8 years of bad ideas

I was playing with a 3.4L 308QV build file today and noticed something about build stack length that seems to apply to the V12 as well. 9500 is about as high as I'm willing to spin it and Pipe max (simulator/predictor tool) says about a 13" intake is ideal and Dynomation (my normal simulator) likes that well enough..... but doesn't think its optimal on this engine (or the other engine that got me looking at it). A 15" intake makes the most hp at 9500 with 931 vs 916 and it what I use in most of my simulations. (light green/red are 15", dark are 13")





Then going to a 17" intake makes 919 but does it at 8800 vs 9500 (light green/red are 17", dark are 13")




Dynomation thinks the intake comes in tune about every 1500 rpm or so and 2" more length shifts it down 1500 rpm or so and then tuning the intake for 8000 or 6500 instead of 9500 produces a better over-all result. Not sure how or if this workson a real engine because in the past I just calculated optimal intake length and used it and +/1/2" or an inch of that is all I've ever tried. I know I've played around with intake/stack length in the past on this simulation but there have been some upgrades to dynomation and I wasn't simulating the headers correctly a couple years ago and lot of stuff is locked now so I had another look and was looking at things a bit differently.....like how low can the the hp peak be without giving up anything on the torque curve. For info, 13" will probably fit under the stock hood, 15" under a wider but stock height bump, 17" will stick up a couple inches through the hood. My plan at the moment is to have 3 stack lengths available on dyno day to get the 13, 15, 17 intake length and see what happens.

for giggles try 11.5"

Why do you encourage me????

That softens it up a bit over the 13 and a lot over the 15 and 17



Now for best hp I think 11 is a winner with shorter bigger headers...but then it peaks at 11200 which is a tad more rpm than I was hoping for and just a bit past reline....but it does top 1000hp so there is that. Here it is vs the 17" length I think I want to use.



As always, ignotre the big dip around 4k, the tri-Y headers fit that but require 2 sim runs so I just show the high rpm run on the graphs. Low/high rpm runs overlaid and you can see the dip fills right in:

interesting, I was trying to recall if it was 11" or 11.5" fired up and check'd and I also get better peak for 11". Though for Nicks new 4L and ITB's the sweet spot is 13.5", nets peak 610hp @ 10.5k rpm.

Dam Mark, it looks like sometime late spring early summer you'll have a runner. Congrats.

Art

I hope it will be a driver by then. I'm thinking 2 weeks and we'll know if it runs or not



in other news, I forgot I need a long USB cable to connect the laptop to the ECU that I'd like to run in the harness so it's tucked in neatly......just ordered it so hopefully its here by the weekend.

heads up, there is a length limit on USB cable depending on high or low speed transmission. thought I'd get smart and linked two cables together for more wiggle room, didn't work well as there was funny things happening, long story short. get a repeater cable if it needs to be longer then what's available.

here's the why:
Speed of transmission matters because USB is half-duplex: in order to transmit a response, the bus must be turned around and data transmitted in the other direction. So the host sends out data and waits for an acknowledgement or a response. All transfers are controlled by the host. The device then has a certain (fairly short) time in which to respond. With the old RS232 we could control the baud rate of transmission, not so with USB.

Yes I ordered 2 things.

1) 15' cable that should make it out the engine hatch and in the window...a temporary direct solution

2) a 16' repeater cable to put in the harness and give me a plug in the cabin I can plug any cable into and connect. The EngineLab is a mini USB so a I got a 6" standard to mini adapter rather than try to find a repeater that is also an adapter....this will also allow me to connect to my baby o5e open source ECU is ready, it currently needs a USB B connecotor

There is a ton to think about here. To complicate it a bit more Enginelab is getting ready for a significant new software/firmware release that I will need to convert over to.....

I just need the wires I'm waiting on and I can finish up the harness, one step at a time I guess.

always feels like 1 step fwd then 2 steps bkwd, don't it? some days at least... just when I thought I caught up.. BAM! more stuff or changes...

You're on the home stretch at least!