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Yeah, she's running good but not 100% though. Still needs some tweets in the program department. I was just reading the last email from the Dyno guy just a few days ago. It sounded complicated then as it did now.

But overall I'm happy with how she drives.

Is that what that is, Chris?

Looks like an octopus orgy to me

Mark, would you mount one of these Infinity boxes in an engine bay? I haven't found any operational temperature ratings for it, but assume with the ally enclosure that it would be good to 100C, or perhaps even a bit higher?

AEM "hinted" that it was suitable for engine bay mounting in their release literature, but I don't know if anyone's done it.

100% is a high hurdle...modern cars just run so good that by comparison an older car that is running much better than it ever did new still seems not quite right. Just keep that in mind and maybe try to get a ride or better yet a drive in a good original car and try to use that as your reference point.

I know it'as all automotive grade parts inside so it should perform within spec to 125C, but it shouldn't just quite at 125C, that is just where things start to go out of spec. It's also seal so mounting in the engine bay should be just fine. I'm putting mine in the trunk which should be dry but on a 308 with the mufflers right under it isn't much if any cooler than the engine bay.

I guess I was only about 1/3 done with connectors and now I'm about 1/2 way

Hopefully I can finish it up this week and get on to installing it next weekend.

I took a little detour to wire up the multi-MAP. I've mentioned it before but it has 12 MAP type sensors and outputs the lowest pressure (cylinder in intake cycle) as the single MAP signal to the ECU, that's the white wire. This will look like a normal MAP sensor but should solve the poor MAP signal issue most ITB setups have.

Somewhere along the way I decided to also send all 12 signals to the ECU but I don't have enough analog pins so I have a 12 channel box to read these and send them in via CAN...so the readings will be slower and not time stamped relative to the crank but I can average each channel and still have useful info or I can do a scatter plot or maybe take the lowest pressure over a couple engine cycles. Between this and the all the O2 sensors I should be able to tell exactly whats going on in each cylinder.....but its more wires and I had to do it twice because I wasn't able to get the guy who designed the board for me to take the extra time to add a connector to it so I had to solder on a pig tail and put the connector on that.

I still need to make make some kind of case for it but that will probably be after I test the engine.

Still wiring.......

Last night I added the 4 NBO2 connectors.

Remaining connectors in the engine bay are:
12 coil connectors, 4 wires each
Fuel pressure, 3 wires
Fuel Temp, 2 wire
Throttle actuator, 2 wires
TPS 2, 3 wire
Splice a connector into the stock speedo wires, 2 wires

This will push into the weekend now that I really look at what's left. Then the fuses, relays, and the ECU itself will be at least another week I guess.

Well Art....as the wiring seems to never end you're estimate looks like it was way closer than mine

A little more progress



I'm going to try and slide in a few vacation in the shop days to speed things along.

Done!

A little deal becasue 1 digit on my multimeter display mostly died so I had to run out and buy a new one to figure out how to wire the BWM TPS sensor and the fuel pressure sensor came with a pigtail and I refuse to put splices in a brand new harness but luckily their crimps weren't done very well and the wires pulled out of the pins so I could re-use them.

On to actually wiring in the ECU. i was going to install the harness but looking at it its probably easier to do a temp install just to get lengths and then do the actual wiring on the bench then do the real install.