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I realized on my drive in this morning I did something stupid when I wired in the little external driver I added for the DBW. I've written my enginelab program to be pin matched to the AEM program where ever possible so when I needed to pick pins to control throttle driven I grabbed the AEM DBW pin which are a 1/2 bridge so the output is high or low and exactly what I need.....but the high/low is 0/12V and in the instruction for the board it says "Inputs compatible with 1.8 V, 3.3 V, and 5 V logic" so it will fry if I power it up the way I have it wired

If I just use a regular output with a 5V pull-up on it then on power up the throttle could slam open on ECU power-up or I could reverse the wires and make it slam closed which seems a LOT safer. Or I can add a voltage divider to the highside driver output to get it down from 12V to 5V as this driver has an enable feature so it does nothing until the ECU is powered up and the program tells the processor to switch the driver on.

I need to think about this a bit more but I'm leaning toward reversing the polarity and tying 2 unused Analog Temps which have a 5V pullup to the a couple unused outputs so I don't need to deal with resistors in the wiring but it's kind of a waste of the Temp inputs....but I don't need them and it's a fast, reliable, and safe solution so that's probably what I'll do.

Stupid wiring.

Done.

You'll be "dry-running" and testing all the I/O before you actually put fuel to it won't you?

One of the best tuners I ever worked with (ex-AEM engineer) would pulse both the injectors and COP's at very low RPM prior to introducing fuel so he could ensure the injectors were opening (and more importantly, closing) properly, and in sequence, and the motor wouldn't be hydrolocked at the first start due to a stray earth keeping an injector open. He also was able to visually verify the firing order was correct, and the wiring. He did the same with the idle air controllers, checked the WBO2 sensors, etc. The whole pre-start check took several hours, and our dyno operator was champing at the bit to put fuel to it and test it, but the tuner insisted on doing it his way, and I was very glad we did, as we found several injectors (which had been professionally cleaned), that had gotten gummed up after sitting for several months, and were sticking and not closing fully......

YES!!!!!!!

I always install the fuel pump fuse goes in last, after base timing is set, all sensors signals confirmed, and other outputs checked. In this case that will also include tuning the throttle PID control. Plus the model (control logic programming) has never been tested on an engine so it's that much more important to confirm everything.

I think I'm just about far enough along to see if it powers up. I'll do the throttle pedal sensor in the cabin next then all the engine stuff is connected I think...just stuff like the wheel sensors and individual MAP signals (which will go to a CAN expander) and some spare wires I ran to the front just in case left. after lunch I should be ready to install a few fuses and see what works.

Fingers crossed, Mark!

Paul S

Indeed!

I'm having trouble with the new V97 locking up. i had it working and good signals on the sensors I looked at then tried to switch to a longer UBS cable to test the throttle pedal and the disconnect/reconnect upset it badly. It is a beta so problems are to be expected, Ill need to check with Jim to see what he knows about the issues I'm having. I'll probably end up going back to V96 but V96 can't open my current model or layout so it means going to one of my older versions and bringing it current

But I am seeing sensors and maybe tomorrow I check the crank and cam.

This morning I figured out the right order of operations to keep V97 from locking up and got on to real work.

TPS and throttle pedal are working and the open/closed inputs calibrate it to be 0%-100% as they should.
All the temperatures are working correctly
Baro and Fuel pressure are correct
MAP....not so much. There is an issue with the multiMAP board overloading the 5V buss....I need to sort that out
No rpm is registering.....I need to sort that out.

I spent most of the morning messing with the throttle which is now working pretty well in normal mode (I haven't played with the idle control or stall saver modes yet as the engine isn't running). It is a little stair-stepy when it's moving slow but I don't know that a cable would be any better as it's probably a friction thing. I tested it controlled by a slider on the screen instead of the actual pedal so I could see what it was doing and also because I can move it much faster that way....it seems fine. There were a lot of little things. I had the main TPS set as the one on the TBs and found that if the linkage wasn't adjusted perfect it could go past 100% open and hit the connector for the actuator but making the the TPS that's on the actuator the main TPS solved that.

A bizarro thing I found was it wanted to osculate when TPS was between 2-4%...just there, nowhere else. Dropping the PWM frequency to 1000hz solved it but at an annoying audible frequency. There was an instruction with the driver I bought about adding a capacitor being highly recommended.....I'll order something and see if that lets me move the freq back up but for now it's working fine. other than the sound which the engine will certainly drown out

I need to sort MAP and rpm now before can get onto more serious testing.

RPM is sorted. The crank sensor output was reverse and it needed power relay connected.....I have all the fuses pulled except what I'm working on right now so my mistake on that. It say it's cranking at 230rpm...not bad.

Now to figure out MAP

Wow..... you're really gaining now by leaps & bounds!

Any predictions on when the first crank/start attempt will be?

Getting everything installed and wired takes forever, the setup and testing generally goes pretty quickly. I need to figure out the MAP sensor issue (it's clearly the sensor not the ECU) and the ECU has a little issue to I need to sort out....the power relay that needed to be on to get the VR senor reading doesn't want to shut off. There was apparently an issue with a low quality FET on early AEM HW and the one I have is old. In the short term I can just plug it to an unused output and add a couple lines to the model to control it but eventually I'll need to repair the ECU board.

To the big question. Mechanically I still need to make the plug wires and install the crossover pipe for the fuel tanks. Then set the base timing. Sort out the MAP issue.....maybe next weekend, maybe the week after...it just depends on how everything goes. I'm close though.