gemellocattivo.com

The lift will give you more space. You can even build a loft for the sports racer to live and use the lift to get the car up in the air and roll onto the loft. Plus, you're not getting any younger and your back will thank you. Also, the lift is great for detailing the cars, cleaning wheels and on days when I'm just not feeling it I've driven on the lift to check tire pressures rather than crawl around on the ground.

I've even lifted lawn equipment and motorcycles on it and below it. Raise the lift up enough to put the bike under and hook 4 straps into the rails for the bridge jack and then hook two to the bars or forks and two on the back and raise the lift the rest of the way and now your bike is 3 ft off the ground and easy and stable to work on.

Get more than one and you'll have even more space for cars!

The leaf blower has a throttle lock and for sure 3 or 4 would make it much better....but we only have 1 so we're at the point of needing to decide if we want to spend money and if so how much.

At one end of the spectrum is somehting like this using 2 minijet engines:
https://youtu.be/KEDrMriKsFM

or this using a bunch of ducted fans and a stupid number of batteries:

https://youtu.be/BhXya08eq6g

very cool but that stuff is $5k-25k in parts and really frikin dangerous to use.

We'
re talking about sticking with the hovercraft type design so its lock to the ground ...but going to a ground effect design that can get up a foot or 2 if needed would make it much more versitile but menas it needs a lot more power, just not as much as full on flying.

Then the thurster question. A leaf blower feels like 5ish lbs thrust whichif we have a 50lb thing plus a say 100lbs kid gives us an acceleration of ...0.033g and a max grade ability of about 2 degrees. Plenty underwhelming so I'm thinking it needs at least 50lbs thrustand to actually be a toy.

So we're quickly into the signel minijet or or 6-10 ducted fan or motorcyle engine world......more plannnign required before I startbuilding anyhting like that.

In a way that's my fear, the lift will become another garage bay for longer term or seasonal storgae and not be available to be used as a lift becasue its too much trouble to clear it off/under to be worth the time bother.

Winter/summer equipement swapt would make sense. Once the 308 is done it can go up with DD under is the most common use I see people doing. You're probably right that once I have one I'll find it more useful than I find the idea......

LOL!!! NOW I know why this Ferrari thing has been taking so long...

Here's how you get versatility out of your 4 post lift. Removed the end stops, put ramps in front of the lift so I could drive off the end and then supported the frame with blocks of wood and then lift the car. In a perfect world I'd have both a 2 and a 4 post lift but if I can only have one I'll take the 4 post any day for home use. If I was running a full time shop I'd get a 2 post but it's really nice not having to crawl around on the ground to adjust the arms. I'll be using the 4 post lift long after my back and knees give up from old age.

So I started cleaning up the basement and getting the old shop funting for the winter...no car projects allowed but I have other things I can work on. This got me really thinking about the space...and comparing to the space the old shop is using.....hmmmmm.....the new shop is a lot smaller and I'm wanting it to do more so....yeah...that's not really going to work out

So.....I should have listened to the advice to include an upstairs. Luckily I know someone willing to modify the trusses. I need to take a few measuements to see what exactly fits up there....I'm thinking it will be about 12x20.

Then I need to rethink my concept about layout. I was thinking the heavy machine go along the back wall leaving all 3 bays still available but I'm not so sure that actually works. I'm thinking getting the layout right, BEFORE I wire and sheetrock is pretty important so I'll try a few paper layouts then maybearrange the basement shop and actually see the layout in action.

12x18 it looks like. The will make the knee walls a little also most 5'. Its also not touching any of the hip end trusses, they are a little more complicated to mess with so I'm thinking don't touch them....unless I decide to somehow bring the strairs up that direction. 2x10 for the floor I guess and about $500-$600. When I was measuring I noticed a tag on the truss that said "Do Not modify Truss" Seriously?

I somewhat regret putting the hip roof on my garage for the same reason. I did it to match the house. I had the trusses designed so there is a room and support for a floor in the attic but I should have gone with a gable end on the back of the garage at least so I could have put stairs going up from the end instead of the pull down stairs in the middle.

Yeah.....

I got d a couple online truss analysis programs and quickly learned it's not really a truss once you add a square in the middle...DOH!

Then I found an online few thing that was a pain to use but it worked and since its Russia Putin can now blackmail me with threadd about the local building inspector.

En.sopromat.org

File numbed 45789 and 45790 if you want to have a look. They want to charge for the stress results but give the deflections and since the modified truss sags less with equivalent loads I think its good. I guess reality is the after adding a floor there will be more load but reality also says the sheeting adds significant strength so while they might have 2x6ed the outer triangle, nothing is going to break.

I'm now pondering adding real stairs to make the upstairs more accessible....or I could just install a mini lift and use it as an elevator.

https://m.lowes.com/pd/Racor-48-in-W-x- ... bsQAvD_BwE

made a couple small changes
case 45792 and 45793