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What is the span of the trusses you want to change? My garage is 26ft wide, if we are close I can send you the plans for my trusses? I had them designed with the room upstairs. I think you are much steeper pitch? I think mine are 6.5/12 pitch

Yes close, i'm a 28 ft span and 8 pitch. Id love to see them.

I've done a few more sims with different load cases and am now thinking 9 foot wide makes more sense. Pulling out the triangulation creates bending loads at the roof, so if need to beef those up a bit. With a 9 ft foot i can probably just nail 2x6x9s to the existing 2x4s but going to a 12 foot span changes the struts and 2x10x16 looks like the answer top and bottom. But maybe I'm over cautious.

I might sheet more.....

Here's mine that was designed and built by the truss company

Thanks Kevin!

That's similarish to what I'd arived at. 2x6 is rates for a 10ft span fr light storage so explains why they chose that. I"m a little confused by the 2x8 #1 they chose for the roof but I'm pretty sure its the bending load+ roof loads.

For my setup I also ready have trusses installed and I have a pile of 2x6x10s that the lumber yard miscalculated. I'm thinking that taken together all that info means I can do a very low cost and pretty simple turss mod to get a 9ft wide room that is very strong but to go up to 12ft wide I need to change everything and buy a lot of lumber....basically build a whole new truss along side the existing and I end up with pretty short walls so the added space is less useful

My plan it to remove the center 2 2x4 supports and reuse the lumber to form the wall. Then 2x6 acroos the floor and a pair up top all just sistered on, but I may add nail plats to the back that I can then front nail to the existing truss, particulay on the bottom where it will be a tensile load.

I think that will give me a floor that will evectivly (counting the sheeting a little) be 2x6 on 12" centers and rated as a real floor. Structurally the floor hanging from the roof but the load is only about 2 ft from a support which is much closer than in the design Kevin posted and I have a higher angle which helds a lot....I think its good. The loads on the existing and not reinforced end areas are high but its basically pure tensile/compressive loading so it doesn't really concern me and the roof is sheeted which reduce the load significantly leaving plenty of strength remaining for snow......I think it will work.

A little playing trying to figureout what to do about stairs....I think I got it. As shown the last step is up onto the the floor upstairs. Because I already butied plumbing in the concete the bathroom wall needs to stay where it is, which means the stairs come up about 1 foot from the end wall....not too bad and it needs a little space for a door anyway. Also because of head room I can't come right to the outer edge of the floor, I need to be 16" into the room......again not too bad. I only need to cut 1 truss which is good. It shortens the middle bay by 3ft and the front of the landing is 4.5ft so a car will easily drive right up to it. I can put the floor heat stuff under the landing.

......I think its a plan. Now to layout where the shop equipment goes.

Shop layouts are hard.......not enough shelving yet

I realized I got distracted with stairs and never modeled Kevin's truss....which turned out to be about 10% stronger than what i was planning. I little more playing and I realized that if I slide the roof 2x6s lower it gets a lot stronger. Setting them to give about and 7ft ceiling seems about optimal, and makes it about 15% stronger than Kevin's. The actual cross brace at the ceiling oddly does and very much....3% so it could be left out or set higher, the critical part is where the 2x6s sit.

I'd be tempted to swap the lathe and the flow bench and put wheels on the flow bench so it can be moved easy. Or, put the flow bench upstairs with the blast cabinet. Make the space as flexible as possible. I even put wheels on my heavy duty shelving. Put wheels on everything!

For stairs I went with pull down along with a little trap door that swings up into the attic to allow me to get larger items like 4x8 sheets of plywood up there.

You know...I was thinking of upstairs as storage. Making it a functioning space is an excellent suggestion since it it basically the size of another bay....probably need to double sheet the floor though and drywall and insulate and hvac.

For hvac I was planning a 36k btu 4 zone minisplit system, 1 in the bathroom and 3 spread around the shop as 4x9k units. I think they have a 2x9 + 2x12 42k option or similar.


hmmmmmm..........

I see your point on keeping heavy stuff as out of the way as possible. The flow bench I mostly use as a work bench and I love having a bench next to the machines to layout tools and parts. I also like the have spme shelves for the collects, clamps ect.....space disappears fast.

I was thinking if you are going to put in permanent stairs to put lightweight things you use the least? If you use the flow bench for other things than by all means keep it where it is. I put a propane unit heater in mine, no AC...yet. I think I paid about $750 for a 75,000 btu unit heater and about another $50 for double walled "B" pipe to vent it out the roof