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The new bearing came today. Once I can finish welding the boss I'll throw it on the mill and bore the bearing fit, There should be about 1/4" of meat in the new boss so pretty strong.


The gear will bolt to the new shaft and the shaft will slip through the bearing to reach the OEM trans shaft for easier assembly and the gear will stop on the bearing face for exact height position. This should be a pretty neat setup.

Yes. Sadly tools keep breaking and tanks are empty which means I'm running up "car" bills much faster than planned

Working on the shaft design a bit....its a hollow light weight race part now.

The torch came today so I got the welding done



Then some clean up to make it prettier


Old bearings out of the drop gear cover. I was told some heat and they fall out, it was correct.


Then I was remembering that way back when I set this all up the first time I had the issue of I"d cut the casing but needed the cover to match, the opposite of the problem I have now. But what I did was just indicate in the hole o0n the casing, install then drill a hole though the cove at the bearing center. When I was done I welded it shut. So I decided to do it in reverse this time and redrilled the hole, install the cover, indicate the hole, remover the cover and I'm right where the new bearing needs to go.


But I forgot to install the clutch shaft/gear that I was going to use to get the depth correct, so back off the machine, shaft and gear on.....wait a minute.....this just looks wrong?? hmmmm....I use the trans gear on the clutch shaft and it looks like I set it up to have the trans gear bolted on inside out, to save space I guess, I don't exactly recall but it seems like a bad idea if i want the gears to run quiet so I just stopped for the night to think.

Gears.

The easy answer is mount them all backwards which must be what I was thinking originally. I'm pretty sure doing that reverses their rotation which is fine mechanically but causes of gear whine I honestly don't know much about so it makes me wonder. so that is option 1. option 2 is modify the trans gear (which I install on the clutch), there is a counterbore I don't need that adds length and is no doubt why I flipped it, so I could just remove it but that will likely mess with the ring nut location or require a washer maybe. Option 3 is install as is and reset the weight of the idler gear and possibly need to add a little metal to the top of the new lower gear boss and then hope there is space in the cover.

I need to have a good look at it.....

I figured out what's going on and got it sorted. It looks like way back when I decided to swap the gears I looked at them and and thought it easy because I was holding the trans gear backwards and though saw it sat in the right spot....then realized it was backwards, it looks like after I'd already made the new clutch shaft and I just chopped a little off to get it as close as possible and called it good. The little could be a random number but I cut it to the thickness of the clutch gear


So I cut the new one the same but that means everything sits out a little further than I was thinking it would making my new boss too short....so I welded it up.


On to the mill to cut the bearing seat and clean it up a bit.


A little more clean up on the bench

and it looks like the gears will work

I'll do the shaft next, then the cover will need a little work because everything is taller than I thought and there's no room for the nut, but that's an easy fix.

As always, chop, cut, reweld. It is the way. It is looking good. I know you are going to get it this time.
I really like seeing all the modifications and ideas come to light. Never a dull moment in the MK E brain.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

This is the way.

Tonight I measured where the shaft is exactly from my new bearing to reference the lengths.


Then mostly rapped up the shaft design. Green are the new bearings,



the large is the one I installed in the case, the slightly smaller will be secured to the shaft along with the gear by a ring nut on the end. That assembly will slip into the larger bearing and engage the transmission shaft, then the cover will slip over the smaller outer bearing using the bearing bore already in the cover as the cover.

Now I can see the design and understand it. That looks like it will do the job.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

Yeah, I thought better drawings would help, it's hard to know what someone else is thinking from vague forum posts and I've changed my mind about 12 times besides