gemellocattivo.com

Tonight I made a drink and then the shaft drawing before dinner thinking I'd start the shaft after dinner but the drink was at least a double and I decided to stay away from power equipment tonight

Smart life choices are needed sometimes. I know, we are car guys and that is just not what we do. Good job on that one.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

I was 3/4 thinking about buying some gears to add metric threading ability tp my lathe, but they don't seen to quite match anything. The one I'm measuring is is a touch smaller than a 16pitch but a tough bigger than a metric 1.5module. I guess I could measure some other stuff on the machine and try to decide English or metric that way or buy all 3 in the set so I know they match...or find a batter lathe

It begins. The 40mm OD is set and fits the bearing, ID drilled...well, on the important ID where the splines go I drilled then took a light cut with a boring tool to be certain its true to the OD but I let about 0.015" to ream to finish size as this is a critical feature and that also let me put a radius at the bottom to help with fatigue. The reamer and broach have finally shipped but tracking says Monday so the plan is try to finish up the lathe work and get the outer splines cut this weekend to be ready to broach Monday night maybe.

I think it was Will who suggested 12 point flange nuts for the exhaust but I ignored it because they were like $12 each on mcmaster.....turns out ebay was them for under $1.25 each so 24 are on the way

I have been buying the Stainless exhaust stud kits from ARP when I do headers on the cars I see. They are not cheap but man they are sooo good. Bullet nose for easy starting. They tighten evenly and don't rust. They also have never galled on me. I have tried other stainless studs and have had issues with galling. I use ARP when ever I need engine fasteners too. Head nuts and washers, rod bolt nuts. There stuff is just so good.

But I did look up the retail cost of 8x1.25 twelve point nuts in stainless. $7.52, ouch. $5.81 for chrome moly.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

I was using mcmaster SS nuts with no issue other than getting a wench on them, particularly after adding header wrap but I also use never-seez on all exhaust bolts/studs and make a habit of disassembling ever hour or 2 or run time sol probably not a fair comparison.

I love the idea of stuff not rusting so I originally used SS hardware everywhere, but I've decided I love the ability to fish drops hardware out with a magnet more than I love the non rusting SS and have now switched most everything back to steel. The only thing really left is the acorn nuts..oh, and the allen bolts on the intake which are on the list of stuff I want to replace if I remember before assembly day.

Yes, dropping one is no fun.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

Change of subject. I've been back to thinking about sealing the heads. The basic plan is a copper flame ring, viton oring, aluminum shim plate like this


The oring is a .070" cross section. Looing at available material thickness, I can get the copper in .050 and aluminum in 0.047 which will guarantee the copper is clamped giving 28-33% compression of the oring, so at to exceeding the high end of spec. That should yield a sealing force of 1500-2000psi which should be above what I need. Great.

Now the concern is I'm using to the oring to align the flame ring but the oring needs room to grow radially when its being compressed axially. Below are a few cross-sections. On the right is a rectangle .070 wide by .050 tall (1.778x1.27mm) and it has an area less than the oring, so that is a no-go. Moving left is the round oring and a couple deformed shapes with the same area (rubber doesn't compress, it deforms so the cross section remains about constant). I don't have FEA software available but I'm pretty sure the far left is going to be close so I need to leave about .0925 (2.35mm), or a clearance of .0225 (.57mm)...which means the oring is really aligning the flame ring until its compressed. I'm thinking I'm going to make the flame ring ID 86.5mm to go with the 86mm bore and just kind of hope that if I stick the flame ring in place with aviation sealant it stays there and the oring can compress out (it will stretch about 1mm to fit over the flame ring). The other option is I my the ID fo the flame ring large enough to to know it can never touch the piston at full 0-compression assembly but that both makes it thinner and lowers compression so yuck.

I got a late start but still a productive day. I finished up on the lathe


moved to the mill, got it all set up


and realized the spindle hits the chuck .350 before the cut finishes.....so I got to set it up a second time


Then cut some splines.


The gear starts on. Tomorrow I'll do some deburring and check everything carefully, I d like to see the gear on the shaft before the shaft comes out of the machine.

I did notice the gear is not perfect, there is a line where the metal is deformed. That made me sad.


And the reamer and broach came so work for tomorrow.