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I'm not very good at getting square corners to weld in fully so I ground it away a bit then welded


Then on to the mill to fit the bearing.


Clean it up a little

and it fits. the new bearings need a bit of preload, I used .004" figuring the case will flex a touch

All that remains is add a little cover to the cover to make room for the added length needed for the nut , then I can clean up and tear into fixing the engine.

The little cover took longer than I hoped....I didn't have much useful stock



Eyeball a radius cuz I can't find a cutter


Weld

then I always spend more time giving it the "obviously its original" treatment but its done and time to clean the shop for engine work.

tear down day. every time I look at these end plates Brian G made for me I smile, they just look like they belong

I'm clearly not professional mechanic material ...I cut 2 orings installing the cam covers


When I originally set it up I made the studs in the top of the timing cover removable thinking they could go on last,



but then I need to compress the oring while installing the cover so I switched to installing the cam cover last. This time I will remove the razor sharp edge on the inside corner and maybe replace it with a radius...I am courious where the missing piece might have3 gotten though.


The buckets and cams still look very good, that's a plus

Slight bend exhaust valves in #12, so the no compression is an easy fix


Found the missing piece of oring, yay

Now the important item the liners are basically flush with the deck. I don't know is something moved or I had a corner touching a radius or some such when I originally measured everything but they are flush now so I think I make the copper flame ring and aluminum head shim the same thickness and see what happens.

Looking at the pistons there was clearly still some leaking happening, hopefully viton orings work some magic.



The pistons cleaned up nice with a little lacquer thinner and the bores look great, yay again

Maybe you will have to resort to dry decking the engine with coolant bypass hoses flowing the coolant. Drag racers do it all the time to keep coolant from being push out due to extremely high boost lifting the heads. No coolant passages means no leaks.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

I'm not sure that is possible with wet liners?

OK, shims and flame rings ordered. Time to pull the valves and get them as straight at possible before shipping to Wade for his magic.

On second thought there is a fine line between tweaked and dangerously bent so I think I'm not going to take any chances and just go to go ahead and replace these valves....

It is not my night....my valves are discontinued. I found something I think is very similar from a better company (ferrea instead of kibble white) but in 29mm instead of the 28.5 and $47 each+$20 shipping . More money and I have so I will need to cut them down but I think they'll work

Supply chains are difficult!

Especially with "race" parts, they make whatever they please or don't please. The new valves have shipped and they included a FREE decal so well worth the extra money I guess.