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Fingers crossed!!

That thing is BEAUTIFUL!!!

Open wide and say "ahh" please

I was remembering 1/16" off the motor mounts so that's what I did, just 1/16" of an inch before putting the engine in.
I bought 12 point flanged nuts for the headers, which made the install SOOO much easier as it was a 10mm wrench not a 13mm. The front set needs to go on before the engine is fully down...which led me installing one of the headers over the lifting strap. OK, jack it up, loosen the header, pull the strap, retighten, a 30 plus minute delay but the new nuts saved way more than that and now time to drop it down.....and the right side is sitting 1/4 may in the air....floating really. I screwed around for about 2 hours trying to figure out how the f.. a 700lb engine floats off the mounts and it was about 8 things I guess the last of which was a nut I lost fixing number 6 or 7 was found under a mount, it turned out that 1/16 of an inch I took off the mounts mattered. .... it was that kind or night.

Right now its sitting properly on the mounts but not bolted. The flywheel still clears the frame by a full 1/4". So the 1/16 I was remembering is what I thought needed to come off the bottom of the decklid and 3/16 needed to come off the mounts. In the morning, after a couple honey-dos I will cut another 0.150" off the mount and get it bolted in place. I'm hoping to be ready to run Sunday.

I like to think I'm smart enough to have made a different choice if I'd known the effort it would take to lower the engine 3/16"....I'm probably not but I like to think I am.  It's finally bolted, there is just shy of 1/8" clearance under the flywheel cover and I will no doubt enjoy the amazing handling improvements now that the engine is sitting  so much lower 



For sure I'll enjoy being able to close the deck lid. 

It's just going slow this time. I bought new CV boots but never installed them and the axles had to go in so an hour e that to change the boots. The puke is getting small though...4 hours left?

I worked a solid 8 hours on what I thought was 4 hours of tasks and its at least on the ground



but I still need to install the coils and the front WBO2 sensor then pull the left rear and tie up wires. There was a bit of a stupid tax when I couldn't find a 3" long piece of hose and had to buy a $40 fits I don't know what radiator hose because they no longer stock generic stuff plus the time to go get it. Then again when I filled and primed the oil system but for whatever reason the 10 quarts I ordered didn't fill the 14qt system so back to the store....but it has good oil pressure cranking and its returning to the tank properly and nothing is on the floor (yet). And yes I filled the trans before I even put the drain plug in the engine.

This is a little funny, I completely forgot I changed the clutch master so when I bled it and the felt the force needed I thought I messed something up with the clutch. Oh wait, I switch from a .70 to ,75 master because it was so soft and I thought I'd rather have a faster pedal and it turns out a 15% force change is very noticeable. Its still a pretty light clutch so no worries but now I'm really excited to try to brakes that should now be about 25% less force with the new masters and it will be less force yet once I actually get the higher friction pads I picked out but were backordered.

I don't like to start fresh engines in the dark so tomorrow after work I'll finish up then Tuesday first thing after work I should be ready to try it. That's the plan anyway

I like the plan. You are on it. Very exciting stuff. it looks fabulous too.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

Fingers crossed Mark, looking good!

I think its ready to make noise


Not my best work on the wires but they are well away from the wheel so that will do for now.


Luckily I decided to clean the plg wires as I found an issue with one


And more luck I had leftover bits that I could find to make a replacement

I think I should whine about oil a little.  Sunday I ran to the auto parts store to buy some oil.  I am running 20w50 for break-in which to me is a very normal thing I've used it in various car and motorcycles for 40+ years. At the parts store I very nearly gave up as 0w16 has replaced it on the shelves but just as I was about to leave  I saw they had 6 bottles of 20w50 castrol classic high zinc in a clip on rack next to the main oil display like a little freak side show. 0w16,  what has the world come to?...next thing you know they'll be trying to sell us electric cars 

The OEM specified oil for this engine is 10w50.  I don't recall ever seeing that in a store, but it is available to order so after break-in I may hunt some up.