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The ECU is back in the car and everything seems to be working again.

I readjusted the throttle actuator linkage and worked on 9/10 (I have to admit with a mallet) and all the TBs appear to fully close now.

I"m pretty sure the oil leak I was seeing is the oil return from the rear head to the block so there is no good way to fix it other than remove the head which IS NOT GOING TO HAPPEN. It is a 0 pressure gravity drain so I got it really clean and rtv'd the head to block seem which pained me more to do than its probably paining most of you to read.....but the head is not coming off.. fingers crossed its at least a very slow leak now.

Tomorrow morning I'll clean up the plugs again and get everything ready to reassemble. The starter say arriving by 10pm....nothign ever comes after 6 so hopefully it back together tomorrow or Sunday morning at the latest and ready for a Sunday drive.

Oh, I figured out the long brake pedal sensation I think. I have an in-line master connected to the parking brake handle that locks the rear brakes so when the car is parked and I push the pedal only the front moves but when I drive the parking brake it off so both fornt and rear move and there is about twice the pedal travel and that just feels weird after playing with the pedal when the car is parked.....I can't believe setups like I have are even legal.

Shhhhhh!

I futzed today mostly. I pulled the plugs to clean them and for sure all the cylinder were running so that is great. ( was pretty white, but it was way of adjustment too so kind of expected and still at at least some color

1,3,6,7,12 were a little wet.....fingers crossed on the blue devil. The instructions say 50 minutes, I got 8 maybe so 42 to.


I cleaned the white mess off of most everything



I messed with the steering a bit. the oscope is seeing data on the CAN line from the little steering enabler thingy. I tried to get my CAN to PC thing working to read it with out luck but that is a me not understanding how to set it up thing not a steering thing. So I'm still not sure why its not working......probably a winter project.

The starter arrived about 6:30 and was pretty near a copy of the old one

Now to be completely honest I don't remember all the choices I made when originally adapting it so the fact that the housing as a lip much taller on the new than the old and a machining the adapter to accept the tall lip would cut the adapter apart makes me thing I cut the lip down on the old starter.

So I decide to just swap housings. once it was apart it was clear the old starter was fried, it smells just awful inside...that sickening burned electric wires smell. The solenoid lever so also pretty sad making me kind of wonder if this was an ignition switch issue? I'll need to keep an eye on it.


With it apart I painted the starter housing

Then went to work swapping the front housings..and the new drive gear didn't fit quite right. I had to cut the pocket 0.030" deeper to keep the reduction gear from rubbing on the adapter housing.


But by 8:30 it was cleaned up and assembled and ready to
pop onto the starter motor in the morning once the paint has dried. It should be about 2 hours to put everything together, but I don't want to fire it up before 10 maybe anyway. As long as the muffler is off I'll run the vacuum lines to the curt-out valves and maybe making getting that working a mid-week evenings project.

Quick status while I figureout what's wrong with my laptop

https://youtube.com/shorts/RWWJGFVM-FM?si=hKx1UpE55IbYFChn

It kind of does and here's a bit more. This video kind of ends at a random time because the gopro battery died and I didn't realized so the 2 go for a drive videos are just in the driveway and kind of worthless.
https://youtu.be/zdjha1cK_L4

The last plug pull 1 and 12 were dry, 3, 6, 7 still wet. I've since put another heat cycle on but haven't check the pulls. I don't know how much sealer is actually in the engine after the overheat the other day so if it doesn't seal I may drain it and refill with fresh know quantities.

I made a couple neighborhood laps and started playing with tuning....I'm trying to decide where a good balance between using timing of throttle for idle control is....less timing the TB are open more and easier to sync but its using more fuel and making more heat. Timing is set at 5 degrees right now and throttle at 7% which makes idle MAP about 50kPa instead of the 40ish and 5% I was running last time....I don't know.

I do know the plugs are coming out glazed, so too wet on start up and you can see it in the video. I pulled a bunch of fuel out of the start up table after the video and also leaned everything...I'll have a look at the plugs tomorrow as I'm still having trust issues with the WBO2, if a cylinder cuts out the lambda reading is hard to interpret. Its not snappy like it was last time yet but the drop gears remain quite then 2nd gear works perfectly so I think I'm in a better place.

It sounds great. Looks like you are well on your way now.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

Here is what I'm looking at in the video, MAP readings for all the cylinders



Quite a bit of variation but then on this it shows what the computer is doing to compensate....the low MAP cylinders get less fuel, the higher MAP cylinders more.  There is a global MAP (cyan) that is used for global fuel and the cylinders are compared to that and the correction applied so all the plugs come out about the same color.

Worked late and a trip to the store meant it was getting dark and I had not interest in running the engine in the dark.

Pulled the plugs and over-all I'm happy. The colors say that on average its idling very near a lambda of 1.



1,12 still looked pretty dry and I think 3,6, 7 were drier than previously so I think its almost there. I picked up another bottle of sealer because between the boil-over and running I've had to add at least 2 gallons so I've probably lost about 1/2 the sealer. Next run I'll add another 1/2 bottle.

The cylinder MAP fuel correction it over correcting. The cylinders with the lowest MAP are lean, the highest MAP rich...and looking at it I was vaguely remembering taking a short cut that applies the correction to the fuel pulse directly and thinking I know this is wrong but it should be fine. Looking at the data the fuel pulse is 2.2-2.3ms, the dead time is 1.16 so almost exactly 1/2 the pulse time is dead time and my correction it almost exactly double what it should be....I need to fix that because I'm not making it better, just opposite the error the out of sync TBs create .

I'm a little confused about the idle MAP reading I'm seeing now compared to last run...never mind, as i was typing I realized what I did, its the way I edited the spark table. The numbers I typed are the same, 6 degrees but last time it was at 40kPA and 60kPa was 18. This time I cleverly decided to get rid of the 20 and 40 kPa row and just use a 50kPa so this time the timing is actually 6 deg, last time it was the interpolation between 6 and 18....so at 45 it was about 9 degrees. I'm not loving the change because at rpm goes up and I get out of the idle setting the timing goes up and the MAP down which is probably why its not feeling at snappy as it was last time.

It is like reading a foreign language. But good job, it is running.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

Looking back, tonight was mostly wasted time. I did add more sealer and doe a heat cycle. I did type the wrong number into the throttle and get to hear it bouncing off the rev limiter which its nice to know works correctly. I did drop the mouse in the shut it down panic, and that was the clacking I heard pulling out.

I decided to add a 0-100% MAP correction number, so a little change in the model...just as I got started Lana called and I thought something was wrong so I unplugged and went to see....it was nothing so back to work. The fuel we have is E10 so I had the wrong stoic and density numbers and I figured best to change it now before I'm very far into tuning. I also notice something wrong with the MAP 7 reading at key on, it was 92kPa when it should be 100, so I turned off the MAP trim I'd just worked on. I added row to the spark table to give myself more options and set idle timing to 8 this go.

Fired it up a few tweaks to get it idling okish, sealer in, cap ON. Let it warm up....the MAP screen is saying one thing but my eyes are saying the TBs are not all alike so I used a feeler gauge and my hear and it was sounding better and MAP was around 45-50. A little drive and cylinders wanting to miss...It was very lean form the stoic number change. Pulled it in and went to look at logs to tweak tables for tomorrow.

hmm....why is cylinder 1's injector pulse about 1/2 the others? Because its trim factor is 0 not 1 like it should be.....1+ 0*1.1 is some how 0? WTF is going on? I see the numbers, I see the equation and the answer is wrong? Best I can tell when I unplugged mid change I corrupted something and cylinder 1 injector was getting the deadtime pulse but no fuel pulse. I went back out and loaded the model from Sunday and reloaded all my new tuning, same issue. Reloaded the model from Sunday and the tuning from Sunday, problem solved so whatever is corrupt is in the tuning data... so I'll take some screen shots and rekey the new stuff it so I know I don't bring over any problems.

Also I didn't really give the #7 MAP issue the thought it deserved...the board outputs the lowest MAP reading as the Global value so WOT was 92kPa but the running reading seemed way more right.....hmmm. I had a plastic bag over it to protect the board but its not sealed...yup, the over heat last week got water in the bag and there is some corrosion and 6 doesn't look any better. hopefully when I clean it all be well, if not I MIGHT have another sensor or 2? All 12 need to be the same and I'm pretty sure the part I'm using has been replaced so lets not think about that.


Tomorrow is pull plugs and clean plugs, key data, clean the MAP and maybe get another heat cycle if it hasn't gotten dark and MAP is working