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There's so much demand for I4 applications that it might be worth it. If it could also handle a 2-rotor 13B that would be a nice bonus.

Yes and yes, both should be fine

So, a lot of busy work today

I found and ordered a 3rd set of crimpers, here tomorrow

Filled out the Ohlins shock repair order, waiting on the shipping info

found a place who'll make me a replacement brake line for $45 so I can avoid buying a new $140 set, still need to place that order

Added the little bolts to the rear rotors. I was running without and it was a pain to get the wheel bolts in as the rotor would spin on the splindle and the chopper plate I put behind the rotor seems to spin a different way and it was just awful. Now its fixed


Yellow calipers.......I need to order ferrari stickers



Looking at it the camber is obvious but its hard to get to to show in a pic

but very rough measurement says 2.5deg so close, just needs a few shims.

Years ago, the red calipers on my daughter's 916 Alfa Spider had faded to pink. After painting back to red, I had Alfa Romeo or Brembo stickers. I asked her for preference and she specified Brembo. I had to ask how she had brand awareness about Brembo as an 18-20 year old. It turns out that she observed from playing video games and we never had these games at home. Anyway, I had to think what brilliant marketing to imbed the Brembo brand into video games.

3rd set of crimper arrive and work just fine on the small pins. Here is 18 &20g tefzel wire

for 18g pvc wire (normal wire) I have to pre bent the insulation clamp bits, but that honestly made getting everything in the crimpers a lot easier so maybe the preferred technique for everything


Ohlins sent me questions instead of shipping info ....those are pretty old, how about some pics so we can see what you have before asking you to ship them. Now I'm a little scared

Nice of them to ask before you ship though…l

Yes, for sure......but now I'm scared and before I never gave it a thought, the shocks are on the rebuild price sheet so I figured all good.

I put a new yellow spring on the left rear....amazing. For anyone in the area I used Full Spectrum Coatings of WestChester, they did a nice job.



There were a couple marks where they had to hand the springs, so I grabbed some paint as close as I could find.....and also painted the front sway bar. I was not running the rear bar and my plan is leave it off for now until I see where I am f/r balance wise so didn't bother painting that one right now.


And looking at the swaybar I know what most of you are thinking, "why oh why didn't you paint the air box yellow? It would look amazing though the blue deck lid!". The answer is simple, I know right from wrong and that would be wrong, now stop it, I'm not doing it!

The rubber bushings in the swaybar links are past sad, but years ago I bought rod ends for the sway bars and never installed them, so that will happen.


Ferrari loves peened nuts, so I have a tool to unpeel them


Looking at the hub, the back of the rotor, and everything around I an not seeing where the grease ring on the wheel is coming from.


I will replace the grease seal....but I'm confused.

Mostly popped the front end apart today. The ball joints and tie rod ends all seem fine....the boots not so much.


I ordered replacement boots, billows for the steering ($13 for the pair...I'll see what shows up) and the hub grease seals. I need to clean and paint everything and try to be ready to reassemble when the bits arrive from CA. I need to design and make a spacer for the lower balljoint too to fix the front roll center. Then the power steering.....tick tock....

I started blasting the a-arms for paint and remembered the blaster is mostly shot. Ordered a new handle and moved on to designing the balljoint spacer and order material to make it.

I've decided rollcenters hurt my brain.  I set the rear very close to OEM....about 25% of the CG.  Everything I read tells me about 15-30% is generally good and it should be lower at the drive axle end than the undriven.  So , yeah, ferrari didn't do that, the front was about 18% stock.  It can be compensated for with spring and sway bar choices.....last night I drew the spacers to set it at 25%.....but I this morning I'm thinking make them on the long side and target like 35% and then cut them down if I'm unhappy.  Then this all got me wondering about the guidelines in general.....using roll centers to control body roll causes jacking or lifting of the car in the corner....but that is a WAY bigger concern with soft springs than stiff springs.  For me, setting the front roll center at 35% would result in a max of 0.5" jacking, but the stock at 18% could be 1.5-2" using the same math because the stock front springs are really soft so a little unloading will cause a lot of motion.  Which all brings me back to set it fairly high, it's probably fine but its not hard to shorten the spacers if I don't like it.