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This morning I got confirmation the should be correct front hub seals shipped so a few more days and I can wrap that up.

I was unfocused tonight....I lot of ECU talk. The programmer is busy making CAN button pads work for a bunch of things, a bunch of talk about exciting stuff like boxes and box labels with QR codes linked to the instructions.......

But I did finish the replacing the 4" harness sensors with a 28" harness and get the steering all welded and bench tested successfully. So now I need to extend the motor power wires and harness and trim the motor housing a bit....and reassemble. It will be so nice having the PS back when it drives.

forgot to share this....in bench testing so its close!  Right now I'm thinking the shock repair is going to be the hold up

When you get an ECU, will any of the old "set up" or data be transferable or will you start fresh and make it run and then custom tune from there?
I know you have had a number of issue you have sorted in the past and your old ECU was very good and well sorted.
I am sure some of this will be part of the learning curve of a completely new design and hardware. It is very exciting to watch a new product come together.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver

I'm reading that I'll likely be paying a 50% tariff. We have 25 boards and 50 case and connector sets for the $499 launch, but after that $599 is probably the best possible and even that may not be possible. Something like an ECU is an odd thing....software has $0 production cost, hit copy....but writing and supporting id does have cost that needs to be in the unit price and we are all new to this so we're not to sure what the right balance it but knowing what comes from where and what it costs.....holding to a $100 price bump is a stretch. Stuff like a 154 wire x 3meter long flying lead harness that was going to sell at $199, is now $299....unless this stuff all counts as auto parts and only 25%, need to do more reading....in my spare time

I kind of liked this take “Trump called it ‘liberation day’; I call it ‘inflation day,’” Bernd Lange

Anyway, to the question. My expectation is that once I have the wiring done and timing set, it will fire up and run pretty much as it did is the very short answer.

When I realized I needed an ECU I downloaded the software for several ECUs and played with how to setup my engine. Some things everyone kind of does the same, other things everyone does kind a different so having a look is the only way. In rusefi stuff is just flat not documented so where say haltech and maxx took me about a hour each to figure out everything I needed, rus took about 6 hours and a few forum and discord questions, Idle Air Control in particular left my head spinning not that it is actually hard but it was done so differently than anything I'd run into before and with no instructions I just couldn't see what was going on and was honestly ready to give up and buy a maxx. But, I was offered this new ecu and offered the chance to help spec ic and help spec firmware changes and here we are.

I had starter translating my setup to rusefi for the rus huge HW so now I need to take that and honestly just load it ti the fw for the new hardware and I should be about 80% back to where I was with my enginelab ecu. We have changes and added new stuff to the firmware, so I need to translate old to new for that and I expect to be at right around 90% back to where I was. The last 10% is the ECUs just do a few things differently so while I can guess the only way to know is to go test it. The wiring will take me some time.....next week project I expect.

Pretty boring night....popping connectors apart, cutting wires, and soldering in longer ones. It seemed like it would last forever but its done. The wires are long enough to reach the controller in the dash and I did another bench test and all is still well so its ready to final assemble and install tomorrow.

Success! the PS is installed and working!



i did run into a small problem, I you look at the dash pic the 2 warning lights on the ends are out because that is where the screw go in to secure it, but the seatbelt warning sort of bottom center is also out because it no longer fits. I could do something clever like a little led in a printed backing to shorten it up and get it working ...... or I could just pull out the guts, glue the face to the dash to cover the hole and take the 1point hit for the dead bulb at my next concourse event....hmmmmm.....

Tomorrow I need to button up the last bits, put the pedal box back then I'm ready to start wiring for the new ECU. getting close.

I had a simple job, install the pedal box, so you know I dicked with it for WAY too long. I was remembering my feet hitting stuff so I decided to lower the pedals a little.....but realized I kind of couldn't, the adjusters are at or post ax really since jam nuts are already gone. So I made a plan for nice mastercylinder spacers but I hate to invest the time until I really know what I wants....washers


An I was only about 1/2 or maybe 1/4 remembering why the brake was a lot higher than the clutch but did remember the clutch was about even with the dead peal and I liked that so 1 washer in the clutch, 3, for the brake.....hmmm...now that I moved the speaker and steering controller that it no brake pedal issue at all, but it is now the same height as the gas pedal and my OCD likes that. The clutch though....pedal box back out, 3 washers in. That give me good clearance PS unit to pedal, foot with a clunky sneaker fits nicely


But moving dead pedal to clutch requires a slight foot roll. Its ok....but when the time comes to replace the carpet, which is in poor condition, I'll probably lower the dead pedal.

I thought I'd be wiring in a new ecu today but I've decide to part ways with the epicefi team, we'll call it creative differences, leaving me once again eculess. I took a good long stare are the AEM board this morning and in my wee little brain, I believe I know what IC is broken and ordered a couple because they are $1.85 and I'm way out of practice. Hopefully its this simple and I can kick the whole problem down the road a year or 2.


This leaves me mostly in a parts holding pattern on just about all the open items I think.  Shop cleaning day I guess, it certainly needs it.

I said I couldn't find the oil cap...so amazon brought me a new more better top shelf $13 chinesium one. Which I proceeded to cut up and rework a bit....



now its "fine"



Paint will be dry so back on tomorrow. I guess i should get the oil and filter. The new chips for the ECU will be here Thursday, I'm thinking test the ecu while I'm cranking to print the oil system and maybe fire it up if all seems well. Then it's just the shock.

I've been kind of eyeballing the front spindles....man it sure look like they are toed out. That got me thinking about the upside-down spindld fiasco and king pin angle and.....yeah, dropping the balljoint 1.6" means i need to space out the lower aarm mount 0.28" ...my front camber spacers are too small so the couple turns i put on the tiered ends gives me toe-out. Need to fix that.

After last night's epiphany about king pin angle up front I checked the rear and its much more vertical so my space should have been like 1mm longer to put that where I was thinking is a good starting point....not enough to bother changing since it was a guess anyway. Up front though I made new 15mm spacers to replace the 8mm and it no long loos obviously toed-out. That is more there I was mentally planning to need but still leaves me enough thread on the new bolts that I about 6mm would be would leave the nylocs where they should be and 8mm..well.... with loctite it would be fine so I think all is still well


Oil tank is sorted, I think looks much better black and I like the new cap better than the old lost one, I just hope I made it short enough to not hit the deck lid


and the new front brake pressure sensor came so that is installed and that leaves me out of parts for the night.