gemellocattivo.com

The new A-arm bolts came so I welded them into the brackets and...or there was a reason ferrari used a very thin head...to the mill with them

With that fixed back to the car...the a-arm bushing area is larger than the bracket and now hits the frame

so I moved the frame and it installed nicely

the a-arm has a nice angle to it now

and there is an extra 15mm of thread which will add about 2.5deg range to the caster adjustment and let me get to at least 3.5 and I can't imagine wanting more than that.

This all took much longer than planned so I only got the 1 side done but now I know what to do so the other side should go pretty quick.

The last few days I've been talking cars with the injector guy and he mentioned getting the traction control working and really liking having so i was feeling left out since my ECU is not reading the speedo sending unit like I hoped. I hooked the scope to the wires at the ECU, jacked up the rear, put it in 5th and cranking it over.....hmmmmmm....not at all what I expected nor anything I've ever seen, a 4-9V square wave signal coming from a 2 wire sensor. I saw the 2 wires and assumed it was a reluctor but it obviously is not. I might be able to read it on a digital input.....if not I'll need a new plan.

A V12 308 (not mine) on a short drive
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hwNswrLy1CPeznJ88

Slightly off topic: I just found this while trying to bring your web sight up on a different laptop.

https://www.gt40s.com/threads/modern-day-miura.54786/

A guy building a Miura tribute from scatch in his garage, body and all. Monocoque chassis from a guy in Texas. Ford coyote engine with a custom transverse transaxle from Pete Aardeema and Kevin Braun using a modified Tremec 5 speed. Interesting stuff. He previously did a 250GTO with a SOHC conversion on a LS3 (again by Pete and Kevin).

I finished side 2 and it went pretty easy and the injectors arrived so I'll get going on the intake tomorrow.

Today at work I was chatting with a guy trying to get his project together and running and he was asking for info about the haltech he's installing and the plug and play pigtail he'd bought and that how to repurpose some wring and such. As part of that I went through the 5V sensor supply and the sensor grounds and that sensor ground is NOT chassis ground and mixing them will cause problems and that got into a talk about good grounding and why there are so many small grounds everywhere cars once ECUs were added and how before that everything used chassis ground so most old sensors are just 1 wire because they ground to the engine but you never see that today because it pulls coil or alternator or whatever noise onto the signal lines and they were mostly analog so they wanted as much signal as they could get reliably and 8V became a standard so ECUs that have been around a awhile like motec and haltech have both 5V and 8V sensor power outputs.....wait old sensors don't have ground wires......yup, the 308QV speedo is a has a hall sensor with an 8V supply and grounds through the casing so only 2 wires. For whatever reason it only pulls down to about 1V not 0V but I think that will be ok on a digital input to the ECU. I'll try it tomorrow.



While getting ready to test Lana stopped out to...ummm... discuss a couple things with me so I was a little distracted and didn't remember that I had moved the jack from holding the rear tires off the ground to position the A-arm at ride height when I tightened the a-arm bushings.....so I engaged the started with the car in gear and dropped the front off the stands. Luckily one front wheel was still on and the only damage was to the jack stands....I guess its good they were cheap and just bent....

Holy shit. A horror story in one act. Glad it wasn't worse.

Also, nice solve on that sensor voltage!

4 new better jack stands on the way to replace the broken pair plus the pair the isn't broken but is kind of scary looking.



And the dyno rollers are out of the shop! Can't give um away? sell um!


This evening I should have been working on the intake but messed with the rear wheel sensor instead....ECU still won't read it. I'm pretty sure its because it doesn't actually go to 0V. I am NOT in any way an electronic guy so in my mind all I need to do it put a 5V zener diode in series with the 1-7V signal and the ecu will see a 0/5V signal and be happy....I think I'm going to try it.

Today I re-pinned the ECU to get the speedo sensor on the input that I think will read it once the bits I ordered arrive, just so its ready

Next one bolt didn't feel right last manifold install. the bolts I meant to use are 20mm but for whatever reason I have a bag of 18mm long bolts and as I dropped and otherwise lost the 20mm long bolt a few got replaced and the one the felt wrong was 18mm lg....so all the 18mm lg bolt went in the trash and the sketchy hole got a helicoil. I couldn't drill or tap straight to save my life so I made a drill/tap block like always.



When I opened the injectors they looked new, clean everywhere, new o-rings and on top an o-ring spacer replacing the double o-rings I had been using. I feel like another shout-out to mitch at T1 Race Development (where the service request or injector dynamic went), he did a great job.


When I was pulling it apart I popped the plug off injector #7 but cooiuld remember needing to release the latch....yup, it was broken. Lucking for a reason I do not real have a handful of spare connectors so i could replace itr without causing any delays


then, because I'm me, I put all the injectors in flow order with the lowest in #1 and highest in #12. My thought is that now with a TB bank adjustment I can match the air flow to the injector flow....at least in my head. With that done, intake on


Tomorrow early i need to make another trip to tirerack for the Supra's winter tires then the manifold sealer should be hard so I'll pressure test the fuel system and get the last few bits on then hopefully make some noise after lunch.

The fuel system leak test leaked fuel so that was sad. I removed the intake and it was clear several injectors were leaking at the fuel rail but it wasn't clear why. After stewing a bit I removed the new correct o-rings and fancy spacers and switched back to the double slightly smaller than correct o-rings I'd been used, polished up the o-ring bores a little and put it back together, no leaks. So tomorrow will be make noise day I guess.

Today was to be a couple firsts, it didn't work out...which is why after like 8 year of failures I've come to dead run days. The plan was to run it with the air box on which also means starting without ether. I figured I had 2-3 hours before I wanted to make noise anyway and it it now runs decent it would be nice to maybe drive and not worry about gravel in the the intake.



Step 1, the air box. When I fitted it last time I just removed the fuel return hose with a plan to relocate it at a future date....which was today. I found a fitting that would work but in the wrong color so "for now" I used it anyway, spray painted it the right color and setup the the hot air gun to speed up the drying.


Step 2, filter boxes installed. I never really had a plan on how to secure them so "for now" they got glued and some duck tape to hold them while it dries


Step 3 the air air ducts. The Passenger side went right on, pleasant surprise. The driver's side I decided I had been a bit too optimistic in my ability to tuck wiring out of the way so I my some additional clearance and closed the hole with duck tape "for now"


Not bad!


The tires are probably too close, I'll need to seal with that but it looks ok "for now".



Time to make noise.....why isn't it starting? Ok, a little ether in the airbox and just a couple pops???....and why is the MAP reading 16kPa when it should be close to 100???....because its broken again. There was no voltage on the10V buss so I ordered a pack of 5 power supplies for $6 delivered tomorrow to use "for now".


But something made me dig a bit more.....and there was no 5V on the 5V buss and I was seeing about 138Ohm to ground when it should be a couple kohms. I removed the old 10V power supply I was replacing and the output conditioning stuff that never worked right so I don't use...no change. The sensors are the only other things on the buss so I clipped the sensor 5V pins one by one, no change so I guess the corrosion in the board that killed the 5V to sensor 7 has spread. I made a new 5V buss with jumper wires "for now" and the board is working again other than the 10V power supply coming tomorrow.



So tomorrow will be get the MAP working on the bench with new bits and then onto the car and it will likely be dark so next run attempt will tentatively be Tuesday. If the MAP goes quickly I may add the hood Monday night so it looks like a car that should drive.

Outstanding progress. It has been an epic adventure and I am proud to have been here to witness and cheer you on. Very few individuals have attempted such an endeavor and even fewer have completed the task. While the success may not have been the way you envisioned it, the success is nothing short of amazing. I have discussed your project with many enthusiast and not one could comprehend the magnitude of the task and the accomplishment.

I only wish I were closer to actually be there and shake your hand and applaud as you drive by. This will have to do for now.

_________________
Wade Williams
Master Ferrari Tech
Restoration Tech
Engine Machinist
Fabricator
Racecar Driver